When you get the 2206 kit, check to see if the drill bit ( in the kit ) will slide into the lift port of the slide ( do this with the drill chuck end - not the "pointy" , sharp end). If it won't, then your lift port is "unmolested" and you can celebrate your good fortune!

Never ever get any drill bits near your CVK for any reason.

I guess you know the original design criterion for the 2206 kit is: KLX300R, lidless airbox, performance slipon, stock slide spring.

Using it on your KLX250S can be done with great success - if done right.
Step 1: Throw away the instructions as they do not apply to your bike - Nothing in the instructions should be followed for use in your bike.
Step 2: Determine what exhaust components you are going to bolt on, and how you are going to run your airbox - Lidless is best performance. Report your decision..

I/we know how to use the 2206 kit for lidless + slipon and lidless + full performance exhaust - any other mod combo will be experimental.

 

 

davewilson your bike looks awesome. I hope you enjoy driving it

 

Maybe I've got the wrong part number for the jetting kit I need. I don't plan on changing the exhaust at the moment as I really want to keep the bike as quiet as possible. My plan is just to change the jetting and remove the airbox lid. So maybe the 2152 kit is the one I need? The only reason I picked the 2206 kit is because I saw a lot of people using that kit for the 06/07 and they said the needle has a slightly better profile. Is there that big a difference in the needle with the 2206 kit that I won't be able to run that kit without running a slip-on, or should I just get the 2152 kit?

I just looked up the kits part lists and noticed the 2152 comes with a slide spring, while the 2206 comes with the drill bit to enlarge the hole in the slide.

 

 

 

Thanks for the input Racegass, I had forgotten about the grease on the air filter lip, but now that you mention it I remember doing that on my yz450f and cr250r.

It's supposed to be cold here for the next couple weeks so I'm going to pull the carb again and pull all the jets to have a closer look at them and clean them up. If I find any of the jets looked significantly plugged or glazed over I will try the carb again just to see if the cleaning helps at all. I also noticed when I had the carb off that the cap over the mixture screw was already removed so it has likely been tinkered with by someone. I should have checked to see what it was set at, that could be part of the issue too. I will probably still go ahead and order the 2152 kit though and hopefully get this bike running a bit better in the idle-3000rpm range.

Thanks again!

 

Okay, so the carb is all stock, slide hole is 3/32", needle is oem, main #118, pilot #35, mixture 2.5 turns out. Cleaned the jets but they didn't really need it.

Drained the fuel into a clear jar tonight it's super yellow and varsol smelling. Hopefully fresh fuel will fix up the complete gutlessness below 3000 rip'ums. If not, some new jetting might wake it up a bit. Also ordered a 13t sprocket to try.

 

All stock lean jetting will add to the gutlessness below 3000 rpm along with it being a 250. Heck, my KLX650 doesn't pull clean and powerful below 3000 rpm and its red line is only around 7500 on the 650 and peak horsepower is at 6500 rpm.

FWIW, You aren't going to get a 250 to pull very strong below 4000 and if a 650 can't pull clean and strong from 3000 I'm not sure it makes sense to expect a 250 to do so. Sure, you can ride around in traffic puttering around in that lower rpm range, but acceleration, at least on my 250 which is jetted and MCMed, isn't strong until around 4500-5000 rpm. Off road the only time it's below 4000 might be turning around on a trail or easing down a tough hill or embankment, otherwise usually 4500-6000 depending on conditions. I let it sing. It's nature of the beast with small bore singles. Tractors they ain't

Even with the 650, when on dirt/gravel roads I'm running 4000, the point at which it fees totally natural and ready to go, pass a car or break the back wheel loose in a slide on gravel. Funny part too, is it doesn't seem to matter how I ride the 650 I always end up around 60 mpg, whether all day on open roads playing supermoto with friends or goofing around on dirt/gravel seldom getting into 5th gear. I do keep it around 3500-4500 is all.

Oddly enough, we had customers complain about the GL1100 Gold Wings not pulling strong below 3000 and getting lousy gas mileage. Honda's reply for us - they are designed to have the best performance between 3000-4000 rpm and the best gas mileage will be gotten running around 3500 rpm. I found that to be true, when I followed that direction on my standard naked GL1100. If I let the engine run around 3500 rpm I got around 50 mpg, didn't seem to matter much if a lot of time was spent in 4th instead of 5th. Seems lugging it in 5th would lower mpg significantly versus the downshift which only raises the rpm around 500 rpm higher, but in the sweet spot.

 

Yeah that's a good point. I definitely don't expect the bike to be a tractor, just hoping to improve the throttle response in the low-mid range more than anything. I've got a dynojet 2152 kit on the way to play around with, so we'll see soon enough!

Thanks for all the responses so far!