Ok here is whats going on. I am number one pulling my hair out for a year and half with this bike. SHE RAN GREAT WHEN I FIRST GOT HER>

SHE DOES NOT START!! - NO SPARK!!

HERE IS A CHECK LIST OF WHAT DOES WORK:
1. All Accessories
2. Turns - WORK
3. Brake lights work - Both Switches
4. High Beam and Low work (with cutout switch added)
5. Run and off button work
6. Starter Button works every time
7. New Stator - LED Flickers on all 3 yellow legs evenly
8. Voltage Regulator - Led is bright at rest and when cranking over/ Ground Ohmed out
9. NEW Diode Unit - Old and new tested the same
10. New Gear Selector Switch - Fixed inop Neutral Light
11. 2 CDI's
12. 3 coils
13. New Pickup coil - Green Leg to CDI is bright and timed at tdc perfect / yellow to TPS is dim

So here is what is happening:

The Blue Coil wire that travels from the CDI to the Coil to the Tach has very little voltage. when you first crank the bike over. the LED tester barely dimly flickers THEN NOTHING TILL YOU HIT THE STARTER SWITCH AGAIN- only 2 of the 3 Super bright LED's are hard to see there so dim.

There is no spark at the plug, I have ground/cleaned the frame mounts for the coils to make direct contact, when the coil black lead is attached to the coil the LEDs are even dimmer on any coil I use. This is a new plug, Ohmed out cap..

everything on the bike Ohms out. Power at every point there needs to be as far as I am able to find. I have an 06/07 Manual and wiring diagram. I work on Bikes all the time and this one has me freaking beyond stumped.

ANY KNOWLEDGEABLE NON-STUPID HELP WILL BE GREAT!! -

 

Sounds like a fuse to me, either that or there is ONE wire that is not connected properly (or loose ground) that was forgotten about when new parts were put on.

 

out of curiosity, The spark plug wire has been replaced right?

 

there is no fuse between the CDI/ Coil/ and Tach.. the Blue Wire Ohms out perfect and CDI has perfect 12V power when the keys on.

Any one else??

 

I have 3 coils.. all 3 are doing the same thing. all spark plug wires ohm out perfect. ALL 3 COILS OHM OUT PERFECT TOO AND THERE CAPS>>

 

Your description list says "2 CDI's". I'm guessing you've tried both of them, and you know at least one of them is good?

 

I have the 06/07 Manual. I was going to Ohm out both in the AM. Honestly no i don't know. If there both bad then I would of course could be getting the same issue.

Is there a cap inside that releases the extra voltage to the coil??

I will check them when back out to the shop seeing as how the manual uses the wire colors and not the pins to check the ohms. with a meter..

I will update in the morning.. ANY OTHER TRUE IDEAS ARE WELCOME>>

 

Would the clutch or kickstand safety switches possibly be causing the issue. Good luck getting to the bottom of the problem.

 

Any chance you could scan a copy of the ignition schematic and post it up? The ones I have access to are for 09+ and 97-99. I'm assuming that the I/C only has the single blue primary lead so the coil should ground through the mount. I would isolate that wire(unplug it) from the coil and then disconnect the harness from the ignitor and ck the resistance of the blue wire(on the wiring harness) to ground. If it shows a low reading then I would disconnect the harness from the tach and recheck. If it still shows low then the harness is shorted to ground,if it show open the try plugging the coil and ignitor back in(leave the tach disconnected) and check for spark. The other areas to check would be the wire that goes to the kill switch-if that circuit is grounded it kills the ignitor. Good luck

 

Don't use ohms, do a voltage drop test. At best volt meters only use about 1.5 volts to load the circuit which won't show any resistance but when the circuit is heavily loaded under normal use a bad connection or partially broken wire will be a PITA to find. Try to google it, it's hard to explain but I'll give you the run down.

Basically imagine a light bulb, 12v in and a ground. If you took the test leads and checked power and ground at both connections at the bulb you'd read 12v on the tool. Well a light bulb is nothing more then a resistance. Imagine you tested a wire like that while cranking, ignition on, charging or what ever your trying to find...if you read zero or like .1 of a volt then the wire is ok...if you read anything above .3 then look for bad connections, broken wires, stuff like that. Also, I hope your using a digital meter and not a analog one. Not that analog ones are terrible but they don't have the sensitivity like a digital one does, not to mention the needle is heavy and doesn't react quickly.