13 rear shock service
#1
13 rear shock service
Hi everyone
I'm looking forward to service my 2013 rear shock... however I do not know what’s the OEM or stock shock brand and so, where or what aftermarket brand sells rebuild kits for that shock.. thanks !!
I'm looking forward to service my 2013 rear shock... however I do not know what’s the OEM or stock shock brand and so, where or what aftermarket brand sells rebuild kits for that shock.. thanks !!
#2
They are still KYB shocks, aren't they? You should see Kayaba or KYB printed or stamped somewhere on the shock or label. As far as service and rebuild, I think the best place to get the service parts is from Kawasaki. It insures you get the right KYB seal head and other parts for your model. There aren't a lot of critical parts needed for the shock rebuild with the seal head unit being the most important. You will not likely need the rubber bladder unless it looks really distorted when you disassemble.
Also, on the cap shown in your pic that tops off the piggyback, I'd get a replacement from one of the models that has the schrader valve so you can service it more conveniently. Frankly I think the rear shock service is easier than the fork service. For some reason people seem to think it is more daunting. Also, unless you're really hammering your bike off road for long periods of time, you can use air in the piggyback bladder instead of nitrogen if you choose.
The shop manual for the shock is easy to follow for service.
Also, on the cap shown in your pic that tops off the piggyback, I'd get a replacement from one of the models that has the schrader valve so you can service it more conveniently. Frankly I think the rear shock service is easier than the fork service. For some reason people seem to think it is more daunting. Also, unless you're really hammering your bike off road for long periods of time, you can use air in the piggyback bladder instead of nitrogen if you choose.
The shop manual for the shock is easy to follow for service.
#4
I was curious about that piggyback cap too. From the pic I can't tell if there's actually a "needle" style pressure filler there or not. It's usually more noticeable. It all looks like an effort by Kawasaki to reduce costs and cheap out a bit...or keep curious fingers from fiddling with the schrader valve...LOL! If that cap is solid, like you I'd like to know how they pressurize the chamber.
#5
be very careful with the flat cap!! I did mine in the spring and the last little bit to get it out is very dangerous, put a small dent in the rafter from not paying attention. Next rebuild I am looking for the threaded schrader valve type
#6
They are still KYB shocks, aren't they? You should see Kayaba or KYB printed or stamped somewhere on the shock or label. As far as service and rebuild, I think the best place to get the service parts is from Kawasaki. It insures you get the right KYB seal head and other parts for your model. There aren't a lot of critical parts needed for the shock rebuild with the seal head unit being the most important. You will not likely need the rubber bladder unless it looks really distorted when you disassemble.
Also, on the cap shown in your pic that tops off the piggyback, I'd get a replacement from one of the models that has the schrader valve so you can service it more conveniently. Frankly I think the rear shock service is easier than the fork service. For some reason people seem to think it is more daunting. Also, unless you're really hammering your bike off road for long periods of time, you can use air in the piggyback bladder instead of nitrogen if you choose.
The shop manual for the shock is easy to follow for service.
Also, on the cap shown in your pic that tops off the piggyback, I'd get a replacement from one of the models that has the schrader valve so you can service it more conveniently. Frankly I think the rear shock service is easier than the fork service. For some reason people seem to think it is more daunting. Also, unless you're really hammering your bike off road for long periods of time, you can use air in the piggyback bladder instead of nitrogen if you choose.
The shop manual for the shock is easy to follow for service.
I will send more pictures so you guys can see. This is a 2013 KLX250S
cheers!
#7
LOL!, I could see that happening with the bladder still pressurized...you'll shoot your eye out. Tacoma, did your cap not have a "needle" bleed/charge point on the cap or was it totally solid with no access like the one in the OP's pic looks like? When some shock manufacturers have gone away from the schrader valve cap, they went to a kind of nylon plug thing that uses a bleed/charge needle to access the bladder. The first thought I had was that these shock makers cheaped out to offer a lower priced component, but it may be a liability thing too...I don't know. Like Brewster commented, I'd like to know how they're pressurizing the bladder without an access on the cap...either schrader or nylon plug.
#8
Over on ADV Rider I read a detailed account of one guy's assessment and mods to the new Yamaha T7 Tenere suspension. He had a closeup of his shock which had the same cap as the OP's in the above pic. His pic shows what does appear to be a needle hole in that cap. He also covers in his post about altering the piggyback pressure, so it seems apparent that gas pressure does go through that small hole. Clearly there didn't appear to be any other gas access on his piggyback.
So, from my speculation, it seems the nylon "blob" on the out side of the cap/shock that we are used to seeing is possibly on the inside of the cap...perhaps...or some other technology that allows needle access and filling.
So, from my speculation, it seems the nylon "blob" on the out side of the cap/shock that we are used to seeing is possibly on the inside of the cap...perhaps...or some other technology that allows needle access and filling.
#9
That is the same shock used on my '12.
I fabbed an air chuck/hypodermic needle rig to vent/pressurize the bladder with a bicycle suspension air pump.
If you are having issues with seal leakage, a new seal head would be advisable.
https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/1...i/KLX250S/2013 is a good source for info.
I fabbed an air chuck/hypodermic needle rig to vent/pressurize the bladder with a bicycle suspension air pump.
If you are having issues with seal leakage, a new seal head would be advisable.
https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/1...i/KLX250S/2013 is a good source for info.
Last edited by GBAUTO; 07-22-2020 at 04:38 PM.
#10
I recently rebuilt the KYB rear shock on my 2004 KDX220 and found that there was no rebuild kit so I turned to Technical Touch for my parts. They provided great customer service and have genuine KYB parts. Having never tackled a rebuild I turned to the inner web and youtube (along with the service manual) to familiarize myself with the tasks. After quite a few videos I was able to weed out some inconsistencies and set my game plan. I do remember seeing a video or two with that type of valve for the nitrogen bladder. The rebuild went great and I was able to find an old racer/rider (Tim King) who relocated from AZ to my neck of the woods to give it a shot of nitrogen. He had a garage full of dirt bikes, both his and bikes he was working on. It only took 30 seconds to hook up the shock and fill it, but we ended up talking for another hour.