You'd prolly be better off with the 128 main and the needle on the 3rd clip position if your elevation is about 800 ft or so.I'm running an FSW header and an FMF powercore 4 with a quiet core and the 128 seems to work the best with the stock pilot jet...I tried a 40 pilot but the bike is just waaaayyy too fuel thirsty for the no difference besides not having to use the choke much at all.
Overall it is dead on with no problems anywhere in the powerband besides the over 8000 rpm sign off which I always figured it just wasn't meant to do (cams,airflow,etc.) my bike runs VERY hard from idle to about 8500 rpm which is perfect for me

 

I am running the Full Muzzy, 132 and 40 jets and the air box lid off and I am getting a consistent 60 mph and that's a lot of high rpm's not putting around town.

 

Interesting differences. Can I assume you both are talking the OEM jets, not dynojet ? I haven't heard anyone say they've gone to the third clip yet, I wonder what the overlap is between the needle and the pilot jet?

It's very hard to compare mileage. If I did more than my 5% road riding I'm sure my mileage would be higher. My riding is more woods and very 'switchbacky' fire roads. Rarely do I hit 5th or 6th and not often 4th. So I don't consider 40mpg thirsty for sure ! Wish my truck would get half of that ON the HIGHWAY !!! And then there is the gearing. I have a 13 tooth in the front but imagine the one size up Dunlop in the rear negates some of that.....so who knows how accurate these highly inaccurate guages really are !

 

I am at 4,400ft elevation and generally ride higher, I run 75% of the time at 60ph or over and I like decent fuel economy.

I use an OEM 122 main with a .034� washer spacer under the needle jet and the fuel screw 2 turns out, A UNI air filter and the KDX snorkel.

The bike runs real well with no sign of being too lean.

With the stock tank I normally go 80 miles before hitting reserve, 110 miles when commuting.

 

That brings back a memory of using a washer under the needle on my Suzuki Savage way back when ! Definitely worked. Since the 300 needle was available for this carb, though, I decided to spend the couple bucks since I was buying the other stuff. Happy memory, though.

I'm closer to 500-1000 feet, not as high as you. That is hard to compare since less air (@ higher elevation)means less fuel needed.

 

Oh I tried the N1TC needle and it doesn't work as well for my setup, anyone need the perfect N1TC collar and clip for cheap?

 

Alright truckman, you talked me into it...since it's free. After looking at my carb system overlap picture, it looks like the 40 pilot jet really isn't that important for other than starting. Considering my screw was only 1/16 out (YEP !) from factory, the 2.5 out should be fine without needing the 40 also. Then the needle and main cover the rest of the throttle position range. So since I have a 128 sitting new in the bag (bought both originally), I'm going to toss that in and the stock pilot again. If that runs hard, so be it, if not I'll go the 3rd clip position on the needle.....

Basically, this means back to the way it should be done, bottom-top-middle. ALL YOUR INPUTS gave me some ideas of where to start with this....as usual, thanks ! I hope I've been as much help to some as you all have been to me over the last 2 years !

 

2 Bros got back to me concerning a question I sent to them regarding jetting. They said their dyno chart (on their site) is withe just the spark arrester (no powertip) and NO JET CHANGES.

That doesn't seem right to me....wouldn't that lean the bike out even more?