12 Volt hook up.

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  #21  
Old 05-27-2009 | 08:29 PM
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I'm definitely interested in the how to...where are you going to mount the socket?
 
  #22  
Old 05-28-2009 | 02:31 AM
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Just as a note the wire that is brown is switched with the key. the wire that is white is hot from the battery, i wouldnt go over 5 amps the alternator has a capibility of producing 16A continuos, but with the lights igntion system and such i allot 5 amps free.
 

Last edited by sharkbyte48; 05-28-2009 at 02:39 AM.
  #23  
Old 05-28-2009 | 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by sharkbyte48
Just as a note the wire that is brown is switched with the key. the wire that is white is hot from the battery, i wouldnt go over 5 amps the alternator has a capibility of producing 16A continuos, but with the lights igntion system and such i allot 5 amps free.

That would be correct, Sir But that's right at the ragged edge

I ran across gauge at Custom Dynamics that comes with a shunt that you install inline with the battery ground. That way you can monitor your current draw while you ride. I was thinking about going totally geek and installing the meter on my bars, but I'm running out of space
 
  #24  
Old 05-28-2009 | 08:31 AM
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There are also devices that will allow the battery to go down to a preset voltage then shut off the power so that the vehicle still has enough power start
 
  #25  
Old 05-28-2009 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MaverickAus
There are also devices that will allow the battery to go down to a preset voltage then shut off the power so that the vehicle still has enough power start
Oy, don't get me going! As intriguing as that sounds, I'd rather not be in a discharge state at all. It doesn't take much for the ol KLX to render itself too limp D**K to start.

I'm guessing Finger Mullet and a few others with a kick starter can vouch for that.
 
  #26  
Old 05-28-2009 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by sharkbyte48
Just as a note the wire that is brown is switched with the key. the wire that is white is hot from the battery, i wouldnt go over 5 amps the alternator has a capibility of producing 16A continuos, but with the lights igntion system and such i allot 5 amps free.
the head light on high beam only uses 5 amps, tail light 1.75 with brake on, ignition not sure i dont have the watts that it draws

my bike is 99, but that has a max output of 14.5 amps @ 7000rpm
 
  #27  
Old 05-28-2009 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by fgk228
the head light on high beam only uses 5 amps, tail light 1.75 with brake on, ignition not sure i dont have the watts that it draws

my bike is 99, but that has a max output of 14.5 amps @ 7000rpm
You really can't live and die by what the books says. Trust me on this. The max TOTAL current draw I could maintain without steadily dropping battery voltage was about 11 Amps. That's the bikes factory installed equipment with headlight on (5.95A@13.8V) + an additional 50W sealed beam Halogen light which drew 4.9A@13.8V. These figures were from actually putting an ammeter on the bike and applying loads...not from sitting back and doing ohms law with factory light bulb specs and a shop manual.
 

Last edited by tremor38; 05-28-2009 at 12:04 PM.
  #28  
Old 05-28-2009 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by tremor38
You really can't live and die by what the books says. Trust me on this. The max TOTAL current draw I could maintain without steadily dropping battery voltage was about 11 Amps. That's the bikes factory installed equipment with headlight on (5.95A@13.8V) + an additional 50W sealed beam Halogen light which drew 4.9A@13.8V. These figures were from actually putting an ammeter on the bike and applying loads...not from sitting back and doing ohms law with factory light bulb specs and a shop manual.
what year model is it etc, but its very interesting, what halogen were you using, and did you test with and with out battery charging.
 
  #29  
Old 05-28-2009 | 01:58 PM
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Got going a little late today. Kids eh! Gotta love em though.

First off I acquired a small galvanized bracket designed for fencing of some description. Don't ask me, I bought it cause it was galvanized and only 80 cents. Back home I set to shaping it into a more desirable form. 20 minutes with the drill, angle grinder and a selection of small files produced the desired effect. I love tools. The more you can have out for a single job the better.
I had already decided that the best site to fit the bracket was to the upper fork clamp on the right side. It has 2 bolts to hold the bracket securely and offers some protection for the 12 volt plug.
The bracket fitted up perfectly and the top fork clamp bolts were torqued back up to the correct spec'. The plug was then fitted up without a hitch. That's half the job done. I'll do the easy bit, the wiring tomorrow.

Here a few shots of mod so far, or is it a farkle. Anyway I had some fun workin' in the garage with the sun out and the beach boys on the radio. It's all good.







 

Last edited by WestOzKLX; 05-28-2009 at 02:02 PM.
  #30  
Old 05-28-2009 | 05:39 PM
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Very clean...great job.
 



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