A great place to wire in a low power device (i.e. GPS) is under the dash... remove the front plastic, then the three nuts holding the meter assembly. The meter backlights use lugs & screws, making really easy for additions... I just twisted the leads and tightened the screws with the wires underneath. It's switched by the ignition.

For higher power stuff, I'd say wire directly to the battery, using an inline fuse. Makes it easy to use an AC trickle charger, etc.

 

After some thought, think I'll just go for the "always HOT" option. It will allow the GPS to remain charged for longer and if I want to hook up a battery tender then the plug is already there. Thanks for the advice everyone. I still have a bit of Kevins money left (Aussies know the score) so I'm going to splurge on the easiest option, a ready made kit from Powerlet.

 

I've had a slight re-think.
Even a small compressor will draw as much as 9-10amps.
That would be at high PSI which isn't required here but non the less, you need to be conservative.
That is more than I would have thought.
I suspect that the current draw at very low PSI would be much lower.

I would have no hesitation wiring directly to the ignition switch, with no relay.
The issue I would have is that then you would need to have the ignition on when ever you wanted to use the socket.
Which means at least the head and tail light will also be on.
Fine with the motor running but not ideal if the motor is not.

I'm with you WestOz, on balance I think the always hot option is the way to go.

 

nice kit Westie, where do you get them from, and how much? I'm going to do the same to my KLX, to power GPS and O2 sensor when I get my **** into gear....

 

Superior minds think alike

I've been running with a double socket 12v outlet four a couple of years now. It's directly wired (with inline fuse, of course). One socket powers my GPS and I plan to use the other for a heated vest. I've had no issues with forgetting to shut things down or unplug them.

Things that are less obvious - I have hard-wired heated grips- are wired through the ignition switch. I would forget those in a heart beat

 

So is that a cigarette lighter input on the end? Where can u buy these?

 

Here's a link to the USA site with the model I'm getting (only the 48" version not the 24".)
http://www.powerletproducts.com/prod...mount-kit-24/4

I'm getting mine through the AUS distributer.

http://www.bluerim.com.au/powerlet/a...nt-kit-48.html

 

Thanks mate, looks like a good idea for when i get my gps. Be sure to let us know how it all works out.

 

When I wired in my heated grips, the white with red stripe at the ignition switch is the power into the key. If you decide to go with it, take care to unplug the pigtail the ignition has (about 4" long), and not break the "hold it together" tang. Otherwise you could have intermittent power problems.DHMHIK.

My preferred method is to wire 12 v stuff into the key. It just seems better precaution. But if it's high draw, then the relay method would need to be used I'd guess.
I've also found I must do it that way, for instance, my BMW F800St uses the silly CANBUS method, so I direct wired a Centech fuse panel to get another electrical socket.

 

Got my kit in the post today. I'l post a "how to" with some photos if anyone's interested? Thoughts please.