Hi,

I am having a problem with my bike misfiring/bogging randomly after 5,000 RPM (it also depends on the weather how much it will do it).
I had several leads as to where it could come from:
- bike not bronken in
- jetted lean stock
- gas having water
- slide in carb not sliding properly
- coil being defective (sparks missing, not well insulated and sparks between coil and frame...)

I have eliminated the first 3 and the problem still persists.

I was going to eliminate the last and was looking for an aftermarket coil that would be plug n play.

Anybody know where I could get a good aftermarket coil for my bike?

 

its not the coil, its you generator/alternator, it comes on at 5k rpms. i had the same problem. its was only bad when i had extra draw on the bike, eg HIDS

 

My bike is stock except the following:
- slip-on
- DJ Kit Stage2
- K&N air filter and snorkel removed

It was doing that before I added the above parts...

Can you explain more why it would be the alternator/generator?

Thank you

 

You can get an OEM coil at http://www.babbittsonline.com/kawasa...GNITION_SYSTEM. But, they are like, $60. I'd take the coil off and test it. Find an Ohmmeter (multimeter) and check resistance between the primary wire (the little one, not the plug wire) and the ground. It ought to be low, like 0.5-1.5. Then check between the plug wire and ground, it should be really high, like 5,000 to 10,000. Also, you mentioned the weather. You mean like hot or cold out? Sometimes the coil can work cold and then fail when it heats up and then work again when it cools off. Try www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm. Some good info there. Hope that helps.

 

Thanks for the info.

I will check that tonight.

I have not examined which weather pattern makes it fail yet. But so far, it seems that when the weather is cold and rainy (most of the time in Seattle), the bike does it more than when the weather is cold and dry (although it happens too sometime).
Weather might not be a factor...

Is there a specific way to test the coil when hot. Like you mentioned the coil might only be defective when hot. --> Just read the link you sent and it said you need a more expensive tool that would test under load... :-)

 

I'd let the bike idle until it was at full operating temperature, might take a while. Then quickly, without burning yourself, pull the coil off and test it as before.
Don't rule out the rest of the ignition system, like sw0ggd0gg said, it may not be the coil that's causing your issues. Let us know how it goes.

 

This morning I checked the Coil... I will give it another test tonight because I did not have the manual with me and did not know what to check so I checked everything I could and noted the info:

Black (with white stripes) - Ground = 1,000 Ohm
Plug - Ground = 12,000 Ohm
Black (with yellow stripes) - Ground = 500 Ohm

It does not look like it is to the spec... I will see if the dealer has a replacement to try...

I am not sure my readings are correct. I left the coil on the bike and considered the right of the coil (when looking forward) to be "ground".

Here is a little drawing of my tests this morning:

 

I would look at the spark to test the coil. It makes the spark, so check that out.

Take a spark plug, any spark plug. Bend the negative electrode way out. Hook up the plug to the wire and make sure the threaded end is grounded. Crank the bike. Spark should be BLUE and consistent. Its easy to get zapped so be careful.

Another test is run the bike in the dark. Spray the coil and wire with water from a spray bottle. Bike should run the same. If you have any spark leaking it will show in the dark.

The wire from the coil to the plug should be ABOUT 1,000 OHMS per foot. The wire can not be chaffed or cracked.

David

 

So what is your bike doing exactly? I know mine a few other SF are doing the same thing but no of us have found a solution.

If I cruise along at 6,000 rpm every once in a while it pauses and drops down to 5,000 rpm then right back up the whole thing takes about a half a second.

I few other guys have the same thing, It doesn't happen all the time so I can pinpoint it. I thought fuel - so I shopped around and it still happened. I thought jetting so I did a pipe, jet kit and air box mod, still does it.

If this sounds like what yours does and your coil fixes it please post up.

note I'm only hearing about it on SF models not sure if this is because more SF guys are cruising and running higher speeds or what.

 

This sounds like exactly what happens to me... I did the same things to the bike prior to get to the coil investigation (thought it was the fuel so verified everything in the fuel system and cleaned everything; thought it was the jetting so I did the airbox mod, pipe, dynojet kit).

It does it starting at 5,000RPM but maybe it does it before too but do not feel it on my DynoButt...

I will see if I can replace the coil.

I am also going to take the bike on a Dyno on friday at Ducatti Seattle to see if they can see the drops on the charts and maybe they have an idea about the problem.

I will keep you posted.