I have the same bike, same exhaust with a uni filter, a 300 kit with the needle set on the third, a 128 main and 2.5 turns and just the snorkle removed. the smog stuff gone and it runs very strong. The profile of the needle makes a fair bit of a difference, but as OZ says, you cna lift the needle a coule of notches to tune it. I would say that you had the diaghram prob.

 

NB, I have no idea. I don't have a dynojet kit so I don't know how they go on. It was mentioned of washers. I just assumed they went under the needle which would raise it making it richer. Clifsta, whom of which has a 09 kit seemed pretty sure of that as well so thats what I'm going on.

I still wouldn't lay my life to that but it seems as if thats the way its leaning. It coulda still been the diaphram. At this point, who knows or cares, right? .... He got it working. But as he said, it still stutters on top, which I'm sure he fully realizes he needs a bigger main.

 

Yeah, it was several months ago, but I'm rather sure that's how it went.

Here's the pic from the Dynojet instructions:

 

Wait though,... so the washers go on top? That wouldn't effect richness at all. Or at least it shouldn't.

Hmmm... the plot thickens, or simplifies. Sounding more like something not seated properly upon assembly. The washer probably had little to do with it. Looks like some members previous mentionings were correct.

 

I dunno, the stutter feels exactly the same as when the bike was stock.

I mean it's the same RPM's, same speed-everything. My main is already way bigger than what was stock. I need to set idle mixture and fuel screw. Maybe I can raise the needle one notch. Need to remove and cap off smog stuff too.

 

So, pics of the setup.


You can see why it would leak. Valve cover, looking top down. There is no lip. The half moon shaped parts go here.


No one has had trouble with this? I know I'm not the only one who's valve cover gasket was leaking. Was it covered under warranty? Did you have to pay anything?


After an hour and a half, a solution was implemented....




Is this correct? The Muzzy came with 2 big washers, they call spacers but doesn't say where to put them. I use the stock gasket at the headpipe opening.


My work area...all my stuff on the lawn.


Naked KLX


The signal won't melt. It barely even heats.


Finished! Sort of...still lots to do.

 

Dude, you gotta lose those reflectors on the fork tubes. I unbolted those things the day we brought it home from the dealership

Its good to see that the signal should be OK in stock form. After mine are tucked in, I think I'll be ok (once I hit the lottery and grab the Muzzys).

As for the washers... I may be mistaken, but I think this is how it works... those washers affect the height of the needle as in, how it sits in that plastic thing in relation to the little clip that goes on the needle and holds it in place. I know that you had to use them because I remember we had put it together wrong and had to stop and think about it. If you leave them out, it leans the mixture.

Maybe, IDK. This was months ago, I turned 21 since then.

 

Now you are probably back to a jetting issue. Like Jason said, you're likely running lean and seeing a lean surge at WOT? If this happens at WOT, you should address that by bumping the main jet. Changing the needle clip position would have the most affect in the mid-range, generally. So try going up a jet size or 3.

Ah, the joys of jetting carburetors. Is anyone ready for FI yet? I know I am.

 

Oh good lord I gotta chime in on this one..... Start over with a 128 main, needle set at two clips and just two turns on the screw....if you can not get the bike to perform much better than stock with those settings you installed it incorrectly.

99% chance it's the needle.......obviously a bad diaphram install or hole can affect this as well. Take pics of how you are putting in the needle....this is simple sheet, gotta be sumthin stupid. Btw you got a good seal on the connections on either side of the carb and the carb itself right? Vent holes are clear?

 

+1 on that