'07 KLX250s wobbling at highway speeds??
#21
12-13-2008, 01:08 AM
I think I figured out my problem...
Last night I tried checking my tire pressure at a gas station. The rear one was at 22psi, good to go, but then I tried checking the front tire and the valve core was stuck in place and would not read.
Now earlier this morning on my way to work my front tire just totally deflated all of a sudden. I stopped at a gas station and someone was nice enough to loan me a valve core remover and a new valve core. I took the old one out and it was caked with that green leak sealer goo. I replaced the valve core and tried filling my tires up again, but there's a really bad leak at the valve stem where it connects with the inner-tube. I ended up having to push my bike down the sidewalk two blocks to my work and had my father pick it up and take it home with his truck. Long story short, I'm pretty sure my front tire pressure was really low to begin with.
Anyways, I bought the new tube and we'll be replacing it tonight and making sure the bike is at 22psi, front and rear. Hopefully this solves my wobbling issues for the most part.
Last night I tried checking my tire pressure at a gas station. The rear one was at 22psi, good to go, but then I tried checking the front tire and the valve core was stuck in place and would not read.
Now earlier this morning on my way to work my front tire just totally deflated all of a sudden. I stopped at a gas station and someone was nice enough to loan me a valve core remover and a new valve core. I took the old one out and it was caked with that green leak sealer goo. I replaced the valve core and tried filling my tires up again, but there's a really bad leak at the valve stem where it connects with the inner-tube. I ended up having to push my bike down the sidewalk two blocks to my work and had my father pick it up and take it home with his truck. Long story short, I'm pretty sure my front tire pressure was really low to begin with.
Anyways, I bought the new tube and we'll be replacing it tonight and making sure the bike is at 22psi, front and rear. Hopefully this solves my wobbling issues for the most part.
That should help alot. Just that green sealant goop alone can throw the balance off if it doesn't spread evenly.
Contrary to what someone else said. Putting more weight on the front or raising the forks in the TC is not the answer. That's the exact opposite of what you should.
Last edited by tremor38; 12-13-2008 at 01:10 AM.
#22
12-13-2008, 09:55 PM
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Westminster, CA
Posts: 359
Okay, we JUST got the tire on the bike with the new tube. I'm going to take it in for a wheel balancing now and will post back with the results. The mechanic I talked to also said he'd check to make sure the wheels are true and to see if the neck bearings(?) are loose?
Last edited by BP88; 12-13-2008 at 10:04 PM.
#23
12-13-2008, 10:57 PM
Yeah, the neck (steering head) bearings are always worth a check just for good measure.
#24
12-13-2008, 11:20 PM
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Westminster, CA
Posts: 359
Is it possible to just check those without any special tools? I'm new to working on motorcycles, but I have worked on a lot of cars before so I'm fairly mechanically-inclined.
#25
12-13-2008, 11:42 PM
There's a more involved check, but the tug should be done first.
With bad bearings, the wobble or shake is usually on decel though.
#26
12-13-2008, 11:54 PM
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Westminster, CA
Posts: 359
A real quick, basic check is support front wheel off the ground with someting and give the forks a fore/aft pull. If you get movement of clunky sort, the bearings are either worn or not torqued properly.
There's a more involved check, but the tug should be done first.
With bad bearings, the wobble or shake is usually on decel though.
There's a more involved check, but the tug should be done first.
With bad bearings, the wobble or shake is usually on decel though.
#27
12-14-2008, 01:19 AM
BP,
Hopefully you have solved your woes with just a new front tube. Riding a highway speeds with a seriously underinflated front tire is not a good plan. In the soft stuff, low speeds, no problem but going 60+ that tire will seriously deform. Also make sure you check the tire pressure cold - before riding. Even though your rear pressure sounded OK if it had warmed up on your ride to work it might still be low as well.
I haven't noticed a wobble on my KLX at highway speeds but do notice the tendency to "wander" a bit. Always figured it to be due to aerodynamic drag lifting the front end up a bit, and when combined with anything but a tail wind requires a bit of concentration. These are, after all, dual sports, not road bikes, so I don't think it is realistic to expect anything near the planted feel of a true road bike. Just my 2 cents.
Good luck.
Hopefully you have solved your woes with just a new front tube. Riding a highway speeds with a seriously underinflated front tire is not a good plan. In the soft stuff, low speeds, no problem but going 60+ that tire will seriously deform. Also make sure you check the tire pressure cold - before riding. Even though your rear pressure sounded OK if it had warmed up on your ride to work it might still be low as well.
I haven't noticed a wobble on my KLX at highway speeds but do notice the tendency to "wander" a bit. Always figured it to be due to aerodynamic drag lifting the front end up a bit, and when combined with anything but a tail wind requires a bit of concentration. These are, after all, dual sports, not road bikes, so I don't think it is realistic to expect anything near the planted feel of a true road bike. Just my 2 cents.
Good luck.
#28
12-14-2008, 01:57 AM
BP,
Hopefully you have solved your woes with just a new front tube. Riding a highway speeds with a seriously underinflated front tire is not a good plan. In the soft stuff, low speeds, no problem but going 60+ that tire will seriously deform. Also make sure you check the tire pressure cold - before riding. Even though your rear pressure sounded OK if it had warmed up on your ride to work it might still be low as well.
I haven't noticed a wobble on my KLX at highway speeds but do notice the tendency to "wander" a bit. Always figured it to be due to aerodynamic drag lifting the front end up a bit, and when combined with anything but a tail wind requires a bit of concentration. These are, after all, dual sports, not road bikes, so I don't think it is realistic to expect anything near the planted feel of a true road bike. Just my 2 cents.
Good luck.
Hopefully you have solved your woes with just a new front tube. Riding a highway speeds with a seriously underinflated front tire is not a good plan. In the soft stuff, low speeds, no problem but going 60+ that tire will seriously deform. Also make sure you check the tire pressure cold - before riding. Even though your rear pressure sounded OK if it had warmed up on your ride to work it might still be low as well.
I haven't noticed a wobble on my KLX at highway speeds but do notice the tendency to "wander" a bit. Always figured it to be due to aerodynamic drag lifting the front end up a bit, and when combined with anything but a tail wind requires a bit of concentration. These are, after all, dual sports, not road bikes, so I don't think it is realistic to expect anything near the planted feel of a true road bike. Just my 2 cents.
Good luck.
A steering damper aleviates much of the wandering at speed, but that's an awefully expensive option if that's all you're worried about.
#29
12-14-2008, 06:51 AM
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Westminster, CA
Posts: 359
Yeah, I realize it's just a 250, single cylinder dual purpose bike, but the wobbling I was experiencing was terribly dangerous. My friend was driving his car behind me on the highway one night and after we got off the highway, he asked about the wobbling; so it must be really bad.
edit - One more question. The Kenda tube we purchased came with 2 nuts on the valve stem. When we pulled the old tube out, it had a nut on the inside of the rim and one on the outside of the rim. My dad said you only need to have a nut on the outside of the rim. What's the correct way to do it?
edit - One more question. The Kenda tube we purchased came with 2 nuts on the valve stem. When we pulled the old tube out, it had a nut on the inside of the rim and one on the outside of the rim. My dad said you only need to have a nut on the outside of the rim. What's the correct way to do it?
Last edited by BP88; 12-14-2008 at 08:33 AM.
#30
12-14-2008, 09:06 AM
