`09 Rake Confusion
#1
`09 Rake Confusion
I'm trying to straighten up the difference between the `06-`07 and the `09 change in rake.
The August `08 DSN magazine article on the KLX250S I think has it backwards, saying the `09 rake decreased to 26.5 degrees from 27.5 degrees. The Kawie web site also shows the `09 as 26.5 degrees, yet 26.5 degrees was what the `06 and `07 had. It easy to see how people can get confused.
I think they increased rake in`09 to promote stability, by lowering the rear end with a new shock and swingarm (Boo! No more snail cams!). They also changed the forks, possibly shortening them them as well, but maybe they just lowered the rear end a bit more to get the rake change. I suspect they used the same frame (have not checked the part numbers yet). Sometimes they'll change a bracket or two and give it the same part number, but it's otherwise unchanged.
It's tough to explain why I need this info. Maybe later.
Could someone who really knows please clear this up?
Helpful would be measurements from the new `09 fork, from axle centerline to top of fork tubes (not cap) forks fully extended (35.75" on the `06). Also axle centerline to the very bottom of the steering head on the frame (~27" on the `06).
Thanks.
The August `08 DSN magazine article on the KLX250S I think has it backwards, saying the `09 rake decreased to 26.5 degrees from 27.5 degrees. The Kawie web site also shows the `09 as 26.5 degrees, yet 26.5 degrees was what the `06 and `07 had. It easy to see how people can get confused.
I think they increased rake in`09 to promote stability, by lowering the rear end with a new shock and swingarm (Boo! No more snail cams!). They also changed the forks, possibly shortening them them as well, but maybe they just lowered the rear end a bit more to get the rake change. I suspect they used the same frame (have not checked the part numbers yet). Sometimes they'll change a bracket or two and give it the same part number, but it's otherwise unchanged.
It's tough to explain why I need this info. Maybe later.
Could someone who really knows please clear this up?
Helpful would be measurements from the new `09 fork, from axle centerline to top of fork tubes (not cap) forks fully extended (35.75" on the `06). Also axle centerline to the very bottom of the steering head on the frame (~27" on the `06).
Thanks.
Last edited by Einfahrt; 09-29-2008 at 06:44 PM.
#2
You mean theres none at all on the 09? Is it like a MX bike with the two bolts you have to screw back then lock them off with a lock nut? If so that SUCKS! Why would Kaw go backwards like that?
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Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 07:23 AM.
#3
Answered my own question. Well I'll be damned, I can't believe they did that!
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Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 07:23 AM.
#5
Ew, nice pic of the `09. I saved it.
Oh one more thing. The forks on the `09 look smaller as well as being shorter travel.
My `06 forks have 43mm lower tubes, and the aluminum upper tubes are 57mm at the
bottom triple clamp and 52mm at the upper.
What's the `09 measure?
Oh one more thing. The forks on the `09 look smaller as well as being shorter travel.
My `06 forks have 43mm lower tubes, and the aluminum upper tubes are 57mm at the
bottom triple clamp and 52mm at the upper.
What's the `09 measure?
#6
that's my exact bike, 'cept for mine has a full Muzzy.
'09 forks are same size as '06/'07. '09 fork has totally different internals than the old bike.
yes snail adjusters are quicker, but the KX style gives you more adjustment; it lets you adjust in smaller increments. if it's so backwards, why does the new '09 FI 450 KX have the same exact style of adjusters? the snails are ancient if anything is. you'll get more life from your chain with the new style as it gives you smaller increments to adjust if that's all you need.
'09 forks are same size as '06/'07. '09 fork has totally different internals than the old bike.
yes snail adjusters are quicker, but the KX style gives you more adjustment; it lets you adjust in smaller increments. if it's so backwards, why does the new '09 FI 450 KX have the same exact style of adjusters? the snails are ancient if anything is. you'll get more life from your chain with the new style as it gives you smaller increments to adjust if that's all you need.
#7
One of the reasons the race bikes have those is not because they are ancient and junk... its because if your ripping your wheel off all the time, espeically between motos for tire changes, fixing flats, etc and you don't have to readjust the chain. The wheel just goes straight on.
This bike has alot of stuff on it that takes away from the fact its a performance machine (carb, needle, pipe, airbox lid, snorkel, etc). Why they went this way I don't know. yeah you have smaller incraments but its not worth it. When have you adjusted the chain on this machine where one notch was too tight and another was too loose? Its not going to happen. One of the two will be within spec, and it only takes a second to do. Adjusting those bolts takes time. You have to sit there and very slowly turn the damn bolts out then find where it needs to be. Then turn the other one out, then measure the two to see of they are the same. Then sync them up. Tighten the lock nuts down. measure them again to see if they moved or not. If so you have to losen the lock nuts and start again. PAIN! I bet almost everyone here is going to agree with that. I remember when yamaha made Banshess and Warriors still and the magazines would harp on them CONSTANTLY about those bolt adjusters and how nice the Honda 300EX's oblong shaped adjuster was. It wasn't a snail with notches like this, it was even easier. You just put your allen wrench in a groove and pushed down on the hub and it pushed the axle farther away to tighten the chain. When it was where you wanted you just tightened the two hex bolts back up. Was a snap. That worked because there was only one of them though. A bike needs two sides so therefore you need notches instead of just a smooth incline because then you would have to line them up.
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This bike has alot of stuff on it that takes away from the fact its a performance machine (carb, needle, pipe, airbox lid, snorkel, etc). Why they went this way I don't know. yeah you have smaller incraments but its not worth it. When have you adjusted the chain on this machine where one notch was too tight and another was too loose? Its not going to happen. One of the two will be within spec, and it only takes a second to do. Adjusting those bolts takes time. You have to sit there and very slowly turn the damn bolts out then find where it needs to be. Then turn the other one out, then measure the two to see of they are the same. Then sync them up. Tighten the lock nuts down. measure them again to see if they moved or not. If so you have to losen the lock nuts and start again. PAIN! I bet almost everyone here is going to agree with that. I remember when yamaha made Banshess and Warriors still and the magazines would harp on them CONSTANTLY about those bolt adjusters and how nice the Honda 300EX's oblong shaped adjuster was. It wasn't a snail with notches like this, it was even easier. You just put your allen wrench in a groove and pushed down on the hub and it pushed the axle farther away to tighten the chain. When it was where you wanted you just tightened the two hex bolts back up. Was a snap. That worked because there was only one of them though. A bike needs two sides so therefore you need notches instead of just a smooth incline because then you would have to line them up.
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Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 07:24 AM.
#9
Plain and simply - they done f*cked up by getting rid of snail adjusters.
The "mx style" screw adjusters are so prone to A) getting the heads rounded off and B) threads getting frozen in the swingarm after several years of oxidization...
Stupid, stupid, stupid.
The "mx style" screw adjusters are so prone to A) getting the heads rounded off and B) threads getting frozen in the swingarm after several years of oxidization...
Stupid, stupid, stupid.
#10
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Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 07:26 AM.