I don't know about the foam--couldn't you just duct tape over the new hole? (don't know if the pull is strong enough to suck it in or not, but I wouldn't think so.) ...or tape/screw some kind of material over the hole.

When I went looking for jets the response was negative when I called asking for jets for the carb model, but when I went into the dealers and had the stock jets in hand the workers went and looked in their bins and found matching jets. Actually, the first time I took the whole carb in, then just the jets the second time.

Did you pull your baffle out?

 

Good news and bad news.The good news is that I found a parts guy that knows his front side from his back side.The bad news is that he told me NOT to do some of the mods that you folks have.#1O NOT DRILL OUT THE VACCUM HOLE IN THE SLIDE.Bad things happen when you do.#2O NOT CUT THE SLIDE SPRING DOWN.It was engineered to do what it does the way it is.#3o NOT change the pilot jet unless you get a "Wierd just off idle thing" happening.If you do,change the air bleed not the pilot jet.If you still have the "Wierd just off idle thing" you will have to change the pilot.He hooked me up with the jets I needed (which makes me mad cause it was at the FIRST dealer I went to that told me they didn't have the jets I wanted).I picked up a 125 and a 127.5 for $4.32.I installed the 125 and my bike now seems to be too rich which is much better than too lean.Runs cooler too.I lost some low end if I don't keep the R's up,but I gained top end big time.I'm going to order my Q2 muller on Tuesday and I expect to have to change to the 127.5 when I install it.Oh ya,he told me to shim the needle no more than .040" which is what I did (.40").It's never run better.Idle is rock solid,consistant acceleration.More as I learn,and I need to learn LOTS more.

 

Glad to hear it's running better and that you got some decent help at the dealer.

I haven't drilled out the hole in the slide. When I bought mine it had the just-off-idle bog so when I gave it throttle there was a pause before it did anything. Now it goes right away when it gets throttle, so the pilot jet and/or the shorter slide spring made that happen. I've never seen another one of these slides so I don't know if the previous owner had done anything to it--mine has a bigger divot/hole towards the bottom and a smaller divot above the larger. The needle is shimmed at 3mm now--sounds like maybe I should drop that down another mm or more. I also noticed a big improvement on the top end after changing the main jet, maybe 10mph, plus better and smoother overall exceleration.

BTW, my last tank of gas ended up at 48mpg. That was with about 1/3 of the tank with the old jets (42p, 127.5m) and the shim at 4mm. So I'm guessing the current tank will be close to 50mpg--still too low. I'm due for a valve check and spark plug check so hopefully one of those is the reason for the too low mpg.

How far out is your idle screw? I think I'm at about 1 1/2.

 

My mixture screw is at 2 1/2 if I remember right,which is what the parts guy told me to do.He said to go about an extra 1/4 and it was at about 2 1/4 when I drilled out the cap.What I REALLY need to know is what the float level should measure and where/how to measure it.I've got gas running out of my over flow after changing the main jet.I must have accidentally bent the tang on the float when I did the main.I took the bowl off and I can stop the gas flow by raising the float (telling me the needle and seat work properly) and the float does not have a hole in it (tested in a bucket of water).But on the bike gas runs out of the over flow.It even stalled on me today.I've got to go get a Climbers manual for it,but I won't get one before the week end is over and I'd really like to ride it on this long holiday week end.If you happen to know...........

 

I've been checking out exhaust on line and it sounds to me that it would be a waist of effort and money to replace the stock stuff.Can any one convince me other wise?I was going to do the FMF Q2 but with all I've read it would be a waist of money.I also considered an FMF Megamax universal but it sounds like that would be a waist of cash too.Why can't some body just make some thing that actually works?I think I'm just gonna tune the carb to the opened up air box and the "missing" spark arrester.What a great bike.What a bunch of dumb *** after market guys to not make every cool thing they could for it!!

 

I'm having troubles finding the actual measurement for the gas level but the diagram shows it just above the split between the carb halves. You can measure it by using clear plastic tubing (I got some at Ace Hardware, only need about a foot) connected to the drain on the bottom of the carb, then run the clear tube vertically up next to the carb. Open the drain screw and the fuel will go up the tubing until the float shuts off. It's kind of hard to hold the bike vertical without moving the tubing to get an accurate reading, so do it 2-3 times to make sure. However, I think when gas comes out the overflow tube like in your case it means the float is sticking--try tapping the side of the carb. If your bike was like mine, the first time I took things apart some crud (rusty powder) got in the carb and gunked it up a bit so I had to disassemble and re-clean. Also, people recommend running a product called Seafoam through the tank to clean things. It's at Autozone and Napa and Wal Mart I think--I was told to use 6 ounces per full tank. I see you asked this question on the Yahoo group site--there are some real mechanic-types that are active on that list who should give you a definitive answer.

I'm surprised the parts guy said 2 1/2 turns out for the mixture screw--I know that's what is recommended for the 650 and I thought the 250 was less, but can't find that info now. As long as it works....