Fix or replace: bitch to (kick) start
#1
Fix or replace: bitch to (kick) start
I have owned my 1987 KLR250 for years.
I am a 'low speed deer trails' and 'street utility' use (means: in the summer, I do 90% of my local trips with the bike, and spent 'free time' on local trails). Low speed: I even installed smaller front sprocket to better be able to 'crawl' (fallen tries, extreme climbs, navigating 1ft wide trails).
She NEVER started well, but over the last 2 years, it has become so bad that aside from push starting her (hot or cold), it is a 1 in 4 chance to get her started AT ALL (plus all the bruises from kicking and slipping off the lever).
The speedometer is in km/h, so I suspect she originally was a Canada bike?
Further supporting that su****ion is the fact that her top speed was amazing (even with a lying speedo showing 150+ km/h, flowing with 80mph traffic was never an issue), and I think I read somewhere that the Canada model came with a few more HP?
I also think she has lost power and is starting to leak oil from the head.
I am now at the point where I either get rid of her and replace with a cheap 250-400 (the lighter the better (think dear trails), electric starter (the frequent starts for the local trips to town), or fix her, if that is possible.
a) Is my year/generation KLR250 known for hard starting, ergo a fruitless endeavor to 'fix' her?
b) If mine is bad, what may be causing the very poor starting?
c) One cycle guy (installed tires; need to replace often since using very knobby off roads for the trails and steep hills in the woods) mentioned that low compression is causing the poor starting?
d) Is looking for a used replacement engine a cost effective way to safe her?
Any suggestions, tips, ideas are greatly welcome.
If she needs to go: what easy starting, light, true dual purpose (from narrow trails to shopping trips to town to short interstate trips), CHEAP (under $2k) options are there?
I am a 'low speed deer trails' and 'street utility' use (means: in the summer, I do 90% of my local trips with the bike, and spent 'free time' on local trails). Low speed: I even installed smaller front sprocket to better be able to 'crawl' (fallen tries, extreme climbs, navigating 1ft wide trails).
She NEVER started well, but over the last 2 years, it has become so bad that aside from push starting her (hot or cold), it is a 1 in 4 chance to get her started AT ALL (plus all the bruises from kicking and slipping off the lever).
The speedometer is in km/h, so I suspect she originally was a Canada bike?
Further supporting that su****ion is the fact that her top speed was amazing (even with a lying speedo showing 150+ km/h, flowing with 80mph traffic was never an issue), and I think I read somewhere that the Canada model came with a few more HP?
I also think she has lost power and is starting to leak oil from the head.
I am now at the point where I either get rid of her and replace with a cheap 250-400 (the lighter the better (think dear trails), electric starter (the frequent starts for the local trips to town), or fix her, if that is possible.
a) Is my year/generation KLR250 known for hard starting, ergo a fruitless endeavor to 'fix' her?
b) If mine is bad, what may be causing the very poor starting?
c) One cycle guy (installed tires; need to replace often since using very knobby off roads for the trails and steep hills in the woods) mentioned that low compression is causing the poor starting?
d) Is looking for a used replacement engine a cost effective way to safe her?
Any suggestions, tips, ideas are greatly welcome.
If she needs to go: what easy starting, light, true dual purpose (from narrow trails to shopping trips to town to short interstate trips), CHEAP (under $2k) options are there?
#2
Sounds like it might be time for a ring job. If one has not been done since new, it is definitely due. Not a big deal to fix. That will help with the low compression, poor starting, and general wheezi-ness. If otherwise well-maintained, you don't need a new engine. That is the "mechanical" fix. The "personal preference" fix is up to you.
#4
Start using the "deej starting method" and see if that helps.
Shut off the gas, open the drain screw on the carb and drain it, then close the screw and open the fuel and give it a try, that will tell a story, and at least rule out bad gas. If it works then you need to just run the gas out if the bike is going to sit for days or weeks. Let us know what happens.
If it does work, send payment to the "Deej Fund"
Shut off the gas, open the drain screw on the carb and drain it, then close the screw and open the fuel and give it a try, that will tell a story, and at least rule out bad gas. If it works then you need to just run the gas out if the bike is going to sit for days or weeks. Let us know what happens.
If it does work, send payment to the "Deej Fund"
#8
Idle not stable, too high or too low.
I had the carb cleaned by a shop.
He opened up the idle jet a bit.
Now starting PHANTASTIC! One kick. Can start by hand.
Idle was not holding, took her back. Was idling stable at 1300 rpm or so.
BUT, only for a week. Now it is all over the place again. Either 3k or dying.
I ran one tank with a can of seafoam, no change.
I hate to take the carb off again. For the first time in 10 years, I have the boot on right (used a wire and twist, since no hose clamps worked).
Any suggestions?
He opened up the idle jet a bit.
Now starting PHANTASTIC! One kick. Can start by hand.
Idle was not holding, took her back. Was idling stable at 1300 rpm or so.
BUT, only for a week. Now it is all over the place again. Either 3k or dying.
I ran one tank with a can of seafoam, no change.
I hate to take the carb off again. For the first time in 10 years, I have the boot on right (used a wire and twist, since no hose clamps worked).
Any suggestions?
#10
Similar experience on KMX 125--turned out to be piston rings
What you said about the rough running (extract below) sounds exactly the same as what happened on my first ever bike....a 2 stroke KMX125.
When I bought it...it only ticked over *smoothly* around 3000-4000rpm and upwards. It was lumpy and rough beneath this, and once in a while stalled.
2 months later....I started losing power...then lost it all together. would not start.
Stripped engine down. Piston ring had broken up, and ended up on top of the piston damaging it. Obviously my power loss was as parts of it started to break away, and losing the effectiveness of my power stroke.
New piston and rings.......WOW.
Not only was more power back....but I had a load more power/torque at lower rpms. And now a dead smooth/balanced tick over at really low rpms (on a two stroke).
So any rough running at low rpms/tickover (from my experience) can be piston rings.
When I bought it...it only ticked over *smoothly* around 3000-4000rpm and upwards. It was lumpy and rough beneath this, and once in a while stalled.
2 months later....I started losing power...then lost it all together. would not start.
Stripped engine down. Piston ring had broken up, and ended up on top of the piston damaging it. Obviously my power loss was as parts of it started to break away, and losing the effectiveness of my power stroke.
New piston and rings.......WOW.
Not only was more power back....but I had a load more power/torque at lower rpms. And now a dead smooth/balanced tick over at really low rpms (on a two stroke).
So any rough running at low rpms/tickover (from my experience) can be piston rings.
I had the carb cleaned by a shop.
He opened up the idle jet a bit.
Now starting PHANTASTIC! One kick. Can start by hand.
Idle was not holding, took her back. Was idling stable at 1300 rpm or so.
BUT, only for a week. Now it is all over the place again. Either 3k or dying.
I ran one tank with a can of seafoam, no change.
I hate to take the carb off again. For the first time in 10 years, I have the boot on right (used a wire and twist, since no hose clamps worked).
Any suggestions?
He opened up the idle jet a bit.
Now starting PHANTASTIC! One kick. Can start by hand.
Idle was not holding, took her back. Was idling stable at 1300 rpm or so.
BUT, only for a week. Now it is all over the place again. Either 3k or dying.
I ran one tank with a can of seafoam, no change.
I hate to take the carb off again. For the first time in 10 years, I have the boot on right (used a wire and twist, since no hose clamps worked).
Any suggestions?
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