Wow, sounds like you need a priest more than a mechanic, but I will do what I can.

As far as bogging down, check your fuel filter for debris. I had a boat do something similar, turned out to be crap in the tank cloging the filter and the carb. If thats the case you will need to eliminate the sourceof the debris, in my case it was a fuel hose that was deteriorating so every time I cleaned it it just came back until I changed the hose. if your fuel system is good try the ignition, a bad coil can have a similar effect you can test it with your manual.

Whenever you run the ski turn the water on before you start and leave it on till after it is stopped regardless of what happens, otherwise you may burn up the water pump. Also, dont worry about emptying the water out, its fine inside the motor.

If it was running well with all of the plug wires disconnected then we obviously have a different definition of plug wires. If it was just barely running I could see that happening. I do applaud you for taking them off with the engine running, bet you got a hell of a jolt (if you didnt get shocked then your lanyard worked properly and shut them off, lucky you)

There is a phenomina known as "dieseling" where a gasoline engine will operate like a deisel engine and continue running without a spark, but this can only occur if something inside the cylinder is hot enough to ignite the fuel when it is compressed. It is a less disastorous form of detonation usually caused by a piece of burning debris in the chamber or if the cylinder itself becomes super heated due to an improper (lean) mix, or lack of water to cool it. if this happens the engine will run incredibly rough momentarily before stopping. You might need to adjust your mixture, but I have never delt with this problem before, try googling deiseling or engine detonation and see if you can learn anything on it.

Keep us up to date, you got me curious now.

 

i used a pair of pliers to pull the plug wires off so no there was no jolt, when i first bought them the kill switch was broke on one so the only way i could shut it off while working on it was to pull the plug wires. I did it once with my hand never again!!! i thought the boot around the end would make it ok boy was i wrong. It could be running lean but i dont think so because i just changed the plugs when i first got them and i looked today and they all are a slight gray color with no wet gas or oil on them. I am thinking that it was hot, tomorrow i am going to run it until it boggs down again and then bypass the temperature sensor and see if that stops it. Hopefully it does and that is the problem, if so first i am going to take the temp sensor off the one with no problems and put it on the other one and see if it still does it, if it is not just the switch and it does it what could be the problem then there is really not much to the colling system as far as i can see in the manual. Thanks for the help prom keep it coming as you can see so far i am in need of it.

 

oh as for it running with out the plug wires hooked up, no it did not run rough it continued to rev extremely high for at least a minute after i pulled the plug wires. And i was always told to start it first then start the water and shut off the water first if not water can back up into the cylinder and carbs and cause big problems....

 

Well I never played with a ski, I'm going off boat knowledge. I cant see any reason why water would interact with the carbs and especially not with the cylinders but I have no idea how you guys work so I will take your word on that. Good luck!

 

Always start the ski up then turn the water on or you could flood the barrells with water which is not very good for the ski. they dont have water pumps.

But as prom says it is dieselling when its running after being stopped and is quite scary when it first happens to you.. one of the best ways to stop it is too pull the choke right out and open the throttle wide open which floods the ski with fuel may sound the last thing you want to do but it works.

also pulling the fuel hoses is more efficient..

it really sounds to me that you have an air leak for it to start revving really high. You said you took the carbs off i think? did you put them back together with fresh gaskets? air leaks do tend to make the engine rev its nuts off.

 

yes i used fresh gaskets that come with the kits to rebuild them. They are a metal gasket though should i try to find different ones to use. I will get the head gasket and other exhaust gaskets friday and hopefully that will fix the over heating problem (if that is what is wrong with it. If it was over heating and i by passed the temp switch would it still bogg down like that??

 

if not what else would cause it??? Also i am looking to get a tiny tach to help tune the carbs is the c1 the correct one to buy??

 

so i have tried everything, i have blown out the fuel lines no cloggs cleaned the carbs and blew out all the cooling lines, replaced the head gasket, and took off the whole electrical box off the ske that runs with no problems on the one that will only run a couple minutes and still no luck, it runs great for a min or two then boggs down it will idle fine but as soon as you give it gas it boggs down, it don't die when you give it gas it just boggs down really bad. please any help would be great... i am getting close to taking it to a dealer and have them fix it but i want to try everything myself first.please help me save some money and fix this thing

 

Have you tried swapping the coils out?

 

where are the coils at. i swapped the whole eletrical box. the only thing that was not swapped is the wire that comes from the front of the motor and plugs into the main eletrical box. i am sure that is the stator and magneto (not starter,,,,,stator) i am not even sure if there are coils on it it is a 93 750 supersport xi twin carb if there is where are they?