Yes the slide and needle will come out with the diaphram. Acutally the diaphram is part of the slide assembly. All you have to do is make sure that you don't lose any parts and keep track of how it is put together. Also, when putting it back in make sure that the needle slides into the needle jet (the hole in the carb) that you can see through the air intake. You shouldn't have to remove the floats to get to the main jets. Between the carburetor and the intake manifold there are four rubber joints held on by hose clamps. Loosen them and you should be able to take the carb off to work on. You will still have choke and throttle cables attached so you can't go too far with it. But this should give you enough free play to move the carb to the left side of the bike and easier access to the bottom. This is where the previously mentioned bowl covers are. Remove the covers and you will see a plastic float and the main jet. Some kits may have you change the float setting using a metal tang, but don't mess with it otherwise. Taking off the cover and looking around won't screw anything up.

A couple of notes;

1) When removing the slides remember that there is an orientation to them as indicated by a little tab on the front side. The spring holder by the needle should be aligned so it doesn't interfere with the small hole in the bottom of the slide (not too big of a deal).

2) Be careful with the rubber diaphrams!

3) Avoid getting any dirt, sand, etc. into any of the internals.

4) Make sure the slides return properly by manually sliding them up using the access through the carb air intake.

5) Make sure that the bowl covers are clean of debris so that it seals back up well. You don't want to find out they leak after you put it all back together.

Good luck!

 

cool thanx for the help. i'm gona go play with it, if i get stuck i'll take pics and post them.

 

thanx for the help. apperently I have the same kit you do. 136 outter, 138 inner, eclips set to 4. Atleast now I know what I have and what I can do for the future. with the emmisions stuff on with this bike, it actually ran pretty damn good, but now that I took it off, its just awesome Hopefully I can get a sprocket change soon and be good to go.

 

Good to hear it worked out for you. It's a great mod that really makes a difference.

 

Did you try the clips set at 3 and what was the result. Does moving the the clip down to 4 make the bike richer or leaner?

 

i didn't try to move them. The bike seems to run fine. No popping, no hesitation above 4k.

 

Moving the clip from #3 to #4 (position from the top) will make it run richer in the mid-high throttle range.

 

what would you benifit then to move it to the third notch?

 

If the bike is running but has hesitation or stumble, moving the needles to a more lean position may help a rich condition. The benefit of moving the needle position is to better adjust the flow for the specific conditions and configuration of the bike. Dumping a little more gas into the intake may provide you with more power, but you run the risk of fouling up the plugs and building up carbon. Conversely, running lean will cause the bike to lose power (relative to a proper or rich mixture) and the bike to overheat. In my opinion the lean condition is the more damaging of the two scenarios. You can burn out the valves and ruin pistons.

You can always play around with the needle positions to see what effect it has on performance and mannerisms of the bike, but I doubt that true performance gains/losses can be determined without a dynometer.

 

it has a slight hesitation, but only under 4k rpms.