What fuel does everyone run???
#13
I would suggest running the fuel your manual specifies. If you are spec'd for premium; run premium. You can run on a lower octane, certainly, but you'll likely burn more of it. You may also damage any O2 sensors or electronics (as Prom already mentioned^.) You can run premium if spec'd for regular, but probably no need or benefit.
Now, if you've significantly modified your engine and changed compression specs, I'd still suggest some testing data so you know WHY you're twiddling with what you're combusting. (Again; already mentioned^.)
Ask yourself: Are You Smarter Than Your Spark Plug Deposit? Get your facts straight before you potentially ruin your engine by playing "Shell Answer Man" and dumping E85 or B20 or Turbo Blue or some other go-fast potion into your tank.
Now, if you've significantly modified your engine and changed compression specs, I'd still suggest some testing data so you know WHY you're twiddling with what you're combusting. (Again; already mentioned^.)
Ask yourself: Are You Smarter Than Your Spark Plug Deposit? Get your facts straight before you potentially ruin your engine by playing "Shell Answer Man" and dumping E85 or B20 or Turbo Blue or some other go-fast potion into your tank.
I don't need some guy writing some manual that isn't riding or listening to my engine dictating what fuel I run. When an engine has detonation and all else is in tune I know what to do - go up in octane. Besides running excessively high octane won't hurt an engine.
Last edited by klx678; 04-27-2010 at 10:47 PM.
#14
You're right, KLX. My recommendation is partly geared toward the inexperienced folks who add mods without thinking, and when their bike runs like crap, they immediately drive to Wal Mart and buy Super 180 Turbo-Magic because hey; they have hi-po mods, now. The only thing left to f-up is the fuel!
Another common scenario is that many vehicles (cars and bikes) are factory spec'd ridiculously lean (or geared all wrong to pass emissions) and when their real world owners don't duplicate laboratory conditions (kinda like that 30 year house paint) surprise(!!!) that 87 octane doesn't work like it should.
Maybe I should have said "the recommended fuel octane spec is a place to start; a point of reference, to provide owners with a higher probability of duplicating measured performance and emissions under factory conditions."
As for excessively high octane not hurting an engine, I believe the farther away from optimal combustion you go, your engine will proportionately be damaged.
Another common scenario is that many vehicles (cars and bikes) are factory spec'd ridiculously lean (or geared all wrong to pass emissions) and when their real world owners don't duplicate laboratory conditions (kinda like that 30 year house paint) surprise(!!!) that 87 octane doesn't work like it should.
Maybe I should have said "the recommended fuel octane spec is a place to start; a point of reference, to provide owners with a higher probability of duplicating measured performance and emissions under factory conditions."
As for excessively high octane not hurting an engine, I believe the farther away from optimal combustion you go, your engine will proportionately be damaged.
#17
The cost/benefit of using lower grade gas and adding the booster just isnt there, your better off sticking to the 93. As for upping the 93, you shouldnt need to. If you do happen try it, be aware its made for cars, so dont use the whole bottle in your tank.
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