Alright, so i've had my 93' ex500 for a pretty long time and at the beginning of riding season it started making a sort of tapping noise occasionally where it would randomly tap when its cold and it would do it less and less till it was fully warmed up. So I rode for a while anyway without the problem getting worse (and without the problem getting better). Mid-Late August I decide to change my oil (and coolant at the same time). I found myself randomly at NAPA and decided to pick up the oil there, I pick up some 20w-50 (considering its almost winter). It didn't say motorcycle oil on it only that it is for high performance engines. I ask the NAPA guy if this would work in my ex and he looked up my bike and it said the grade was good enough which is SL/CD. I go home, put in the oil, change my coolant and when I go to start her up (mainly to get the air out of the coolant system) and it is tapping like crazy making quite a racket. I shut it off but I realize I still have to air out the coolant so I turn it on and let it idle for a moment, it doesn't get quieter as it warms up this time. I let it sit for 3 weeks thinking about what it could be (I was thinking the cam chain tensioner), then I finally looked in my manual and see that I have the wrong grade (according to haynes, but the napa guy said it was alright). So I took a video before draining the oil, here it is so you can see how it sounds, I even saw some smoke coming from the oil sight glass?!?! (it looks empty in the video but its on its kickstand, it def had enough oil) Here is that video before the oil change (already warmed up):
http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...apandsmoke.flv

So I got the right grade (for sure this time since I brought my haynes) of 20w-50 and put it in, the valve tap sound is still only kind of there (where it was before pretty much) but now it can barely idle at all and it still makes weird sounds. The hesitation is also crazy. Here is a video of the bike after the oil change to the correct oil (already warmed up):
http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...hesitation.flv

Any ideas? Thanks for the help.

 

motor does not sound healthy... possibly a spun bearing on the crankshaft, timing could be off... w/out the bike in front of me it sounds like extensive work.

luckily there are many parts for these as the motor has not changed since 1987 (20 modelyears!)

 

Wow, thats scary, I didn't consider that possibility. I did drive it around the block and it seemed to have all its power still there.... What would a spun bearing feel like while riding the bike? Any difference? Thanks for the post. Anyone else have any ideas for me to try?

 

yeah that definitely sounds like it is not firing on all cylinders. Sounds like something let go or is about to.Definitiely have a problem. Good Luck

 

When was the last time you did a clutch adjustment? I wonder if your clutch is dragging? Also, find a weekend to check your valve clearances. If it's getting cold where you live, you need a thinner oil not thicker. Go to a 10W40, and make sure it's not energy conserving oil. I use standard Castrol brand oil. Only other thing I could think of at this point is maybe your carbs are messed up. maybe sticking choke or leaking vacuum line. Bad vacuum lines ALWAYS cause erratic engine problems.

 

wow, that sounds nasty! lol
Looked like the smoke was coming off of the headers to me. I would try a lighter oil, 10/40 lets say. Clean and synch your carbs and check your cam chain tensioner. Then you can proceed to the more involved stuff if those other checks did not solve the problem.

 

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. After getting all this info (from other forums too) I've got a laundry list of things to try this weekend to get her running. I'm going to start from easiet and work my way up.

1) Starting with switching to 10w40
2) Then adjust the idle
3) Check the spark plugs (and replace if necessary)
4) Adjust the valves (its been a while)
5) Clean the carbs (could be the cause of hesitation)
6) Replace the clutch cover gasket (the smoke in the first vid could be a leaking gasket) and while i'm in there put in stiffer clutch springs and check out the clutch.

Anyone have anything to add to the list? Thanks again for all the suggestions.

 

have someone else you consider "knowledgeable and in it for you" listen to the bike. cuz, if that motors fried but still running its salvageable now but not for long.

take a stethescope or screwdriver with the pointy end on the motor and the handle to your ear and listen to different places on the motor. pinpoint the noise and refer back to us.

 

I would not worry about changing clutch plate springs. Any visable signs anywhere are where I would check first. Any good mechanic will check carb boots when playing with the carbs for example. Keep your eyes open when playing with the ride.