Stop!! Do not turn the motor any more...Since the chain jumped, you can risk valve damage..

You are still okay tho....Dragone is right. You need to start over now. Get right back to square one man. Get everything back apart. Then crank get back to TDC, get cams lined back up on arrows, then re install chain, and guides....double check all three marks, then install tensioner, double check marks again...Don't forget to put chain slack on intake side, then rotate motor, and check marks again..

Hell, you have it figured out now. I say in 2 hours or so, you will have her done.

So remove everything, and do not turn the cams by themselves without it in time..And do not rotate the crank until you have the cams out.

 

I am on it. When I turn the crank with the cam off what about the chain. Will it just hang there or do I need to work it around with the crank. I se in the service manual noit to let it drop into the area where the crank is.

Also what is this "place the indicator in the spark plug hole" am I looking down the #1 cylinder, through the spark plug hole and watching fro the piston? What is the indicator? [>:]

 

He is prob talking about a dial indicator....You are okay tho...On that R1, you just need to dial the crank TDC mark onto the pick up....On a custom up build, or to dial a motor in, usually on cars, you have a dial indicator and a piston stop...Is that what you are talking about dragone?

I would work the chain around with the crank. You do not want that chain binding up down there causing damage. If you try to turn the crank over, and you just let the chain hang there, it is going to get all bound up, like silly string in a bath tub....

 

How do I know that the #1 piston is all the way up, top compression?

It is all off and I am ready to turn the crank. I remember it being more than 1 complete turn to gat the cam marks back on top, so should I rotate it cw 2 times and stop at TDC mark or just turn it ccw back to TDC mark?

Hope I am not confusing you here. I was only s very small turn 1/16 cw off of TDC when all this started.

**spelling edit**

 

If you try to cheat it now, NS, it is going to get all jumbled up.... I would pull the cams. Then turn crank over to TDC mark on pick up. Then re install cams.

When you are on compression stroke depends on the corralation of the cams to the crank....Don't cheat it here man, I've tried it a hundred times, and nothing but bad will come from it. Get back to square one. It doesn't take that much longer anyway ya know....Pull the cams, then rotate the crank, then re align the cams.....

Then it's all good!! It's kind of like that taco bell commercial ya know...lol

Oh, and when the crank is on TDC lined up on your marks, The piston is in the right local. That's why those marks are there. Those marks are all ready putting the crank and the pistons in the right position...

Then when the crank's lined up, that;s why the cam marks are there on each cam...it is lining up the cams to the crank and to the valves in the right place....

 

I got you. I have already pulled the cams and tied off the chain.

I am just not sure when I turn the crank and line up the TDC on the rotor to the mark on the crank case if the #1 cylinder is on top? Or is it on top ervery time the crank make a complete turn and the tdc mark is allinged with the mark an the crank case?

 

Okay I am at TDC with the #1 cylinder when the lobs are pointing away from each other.

 

I had to re read you last post, and I see what you are saying......You just need to get the crank on TDC...There are 4 strokes..Intake, compression, power, exhuast. I'm trying to explain this so bare with me okay...lol.....Now, the strokes depend on where and at what time the cams open and close the valves at, corralating to the time the piston is in what part of the stroke. Remeber a couple of pics ago, when the intake cam was lined up, but the crank was around 5 degrees After top dead center, ( ATDC), so what would have happened, is the plug would have fired too late, causing a signifacant loss in power... Well when the piston starts in first stroke, it is up, the piston moves down, the intake valve opens, and the air fuel mixture enters the chamber.....Now, stroke #2, the piston moves up, compressing the AF mix..Now on low octane fuel the highly compressed mix generates heat, and the AF mix could combust prematurely to the plug firing. Hence spark knock. That's why our bikes run on high octane. The AF mix will not ignite until the plug fires. Now, normally, when the piston is at the top ofthe stroke or close to top, depends on engine specs, the plug fires. Now the piston has to be times just right with the BOOM from the AF explosion. YOu want the boom to hapen just as the piston rounds and starts to go down. This is where you get your power, or lack there of. This downward stroke is the " power" stroke. After the piston starts to make it's way back up, this is the 4th stroke. The exhaust valve opens, expelling the burnt gasses. And now it starts all over again... I only said this, so you could get an idea of how the valves are opening and closing...

It really is pretty simple, once you see how it works....So, without the cams in there, the crank thinks it is a two stroke. Just like a 2 stroke motor. YOu talked about having to turn the engine over twice to get back to TDC, that's true, but only with the cams installed. Without the cams installed, all you have in the motor is Compression stroke, and power stroke.. The valves are what determine the four strokes..

 

Yes, with the cams installed....that would be compression stroke...

Yes, that is right also...But with the cams installed, with one turn of the crank back to TDC, is compression, another one full turn of the crank back to TDC, is exhaust.

 

Its not all in yet still putting on the cam caps but the marks are right on and the slack is on the tensioner side.