That is what I am hoping for. I will be watching for the timing marks and will tie off the chain. Nobrakes posted some great pictures to help me out.

Well off to remove the cams hope I can read the shim sizes, I will have to drink a cold corona and make an offering to the engine gods for good luck

 

Nice, you might want to drink the Corona afterwards!! lol lol

Hell, if I was there I would come over and keep you company...the least I could do is drink your Coronas, so that way You would not get to loopy, and you would be able to do a great job!! It's the least I can do!! lol lol

 

Your such a giver, hell the company would be good and it's always nice to have some beers with one of the bro's.

Well after checking the shims I am lucky, I could read all the #'s.

Out of 25 shims I am changing 15. Would do you think Bigrig if some if the measurements were on the tight side of the spec would you increase the shim by one size to maybe get it closer to the loose side of spec. My thinking is that if the valves are going to tighten I would be better off starting on the loose side of spec.

Or is the shim table already doing this for me?

 

I am not sure if the shim table is doing that or not??? I dunno....Me personally, I would shoot for right in the middle. That way, if a valve tightens a bit or loosens a bit, it is still in spec. Intake says .11-.20 I would shoot for around .15 ...and so on. If you went for right in the middle of the spectrum, I would think it would give you the best all around performance.. What would happen if you set all the valves on the loose side? I would think better low end, cause at high end you would float the vlaves too much and lose that top end power.. That's just my opinion tho'....that's what I would do anyway...What do you think? I'll see if I can find a chart or table somewhere that shows low, mid, and hi end power curves corralating to the valve lapping gap...

 

All right....Found 3 different sites that recommended the same thing... Intake = .15 and Exhaust = .25

It said that if you set the valves at those specs, it would be the best performance, and the longest time you can go between re setting again. Also some other stuff over my head..lol lol..something about 255 degree duration time on intake and 280 degree duration on exhaust, and those specs, the .15 and .25 were the optimal adjustment specs for that R1..wow..some smart peoples..

 

Nice, thanks bro. I am going to pickup, hopefully, all the parts needed to put her back to gether.

 

NP man....GL

 

I know less about timing than I do about valve clearances. Lol

Well I went to the dealer to get the shims, gaskets and some other stuff, freaking shims were 6.85 each. Dam hella markup on those little puppies.

Of course they were out of 3 of them and had to order, also the valve cover gasket not in stock. Should be here for a Saturday wrap though, I also got my replacement stator cove that I have been hoping would make it here so I could replace while the oil was drained.

 

Wassup NS?? On your timing, did you line up the marks prior to disassembly to check to see if it was out? If you did not, did you zip tie or wire the cam gears to the chain so it would not change? If not, then you have to re time the entire thing from scratch. Easy enough though. When you get to that point and you want some help, just let me know. Timing is actually pretty easy to do, it just seems hard.

I think there is a gasket also on the tensioner isn't there? By the time you're done with that thing, it's gonna be like a brand new one!! lol lol.. Wish I could do that with the wife!! lmao..

 

Another option maybe for next time is something like the Hot Cams shim kit that includes 3 shims of every size. Type in "hot cams shims" into Google for some suppliers. They sell 7.48 mm and 9.48 mm diameter shims depending on what your bike takes. The price is good, as long as you don't need more than three of a particular size since the kit comes with 3 of every size, and you will have shims left over for the next time you need to do it, which is admittedly probably not too soon. Also, they have a refill pack that includes 5 shims of a smaller range of sizes. If the sizes you need are in that range, then that can be a good buy too - less than a buck a shim.

Sounds like you are getting close. God speed, Notstock! You are rounding the final turn to the home stretch!