Sounds like your getting the info needed Notstock good luck on her.... I'll be doing the same thing here in a minute.

 

Yea I will get through this I am sure. Are you doing your valves too.

 

Well thinking bout it, but after looking around most sites are saying dont do it till about 16,000 miles so I dont know???? I will be doing oil n filter, air filter and plugs, Clean the chain and check all moving parts for adjustment or tightness. Oh yeah it needs a rear tire to it has a bad case of no tread down the middle hahaha.

 

Checking the valves, writing them down in your manual with the mileage only takes a couple of hrs lemac. Wouldn't knowing your ride make you feel more comfy?
16k miles of too loose would kill me.

 

Well things are coming along and after measuring the intake and exhaust valve clearances 10 different times I am confident that I have the correct readings.

The picture below is where I am at and the factory spec is Intake .11-.20mm, Exhaust .21-.30mm.

I am going to remove the cams and the valve buckets so I can get to the shims and hope that I can still read the printed number on them. I still have not picked up a micrometer needed to measure the shims if the number is worn off. Hopefully I can so it will be possible to figure out the new shim sizes.
Thanks again for the input, seeing the diagrams from the links realy helped in understanding how to record and keep track of the pmeasurements and parts.

 

Not bad..closer than I thought they would be.. A little tighter than I thought... Did you figure out your smoking prob?? I had to check mine since you brought it up, and no smoke.... Generally that's what all the smog hoses are for..They take the extra back pressure and feed it back through the air filter. If you have all your hoses disconnected, then the crankcase presssure has to go somewhere...

 

Yea it is tight, I will order shims to get it closer the looser side. The smoke I have been told is normal according to some other R1 owners, they called it blow back and it dose dump it into the air filter to be burned in the combustion chamber.

 

hey NS, you also said the bike was ticking pretty good?? Having the vlaves a little tighter than normal would not cause that? Did you find the cause for the ticking? Is there a lot of slop in the chain, or is the tensioner worn out?

 

The chain appears good and not that loose looking, I am going to remove the tensioner right now and inspect it. The manual shows me how to reset it and hopefully it is good.

I am still a little unclear about the timing but when I get their I will get it I am sure. I realized I measured the valves with he cams in the wrong position so I did it again and then again to double check my measurements.

 

The timing is not that hard.... Have you ever messed with timing on a car ot truck?? Same type procedure. It's a four stroke thing.. You prbably know, but when you pull her apart, make sure you zip tie like posted b4..if not, and you pull the gears, you are going to have to re time the entire thing...back on TDC, all three timing marks have to be lined up, and I belive on the R1 the chain has a short side and a long side, so there are marks on the chain too... Easy enough to check tho, get the bike to 1 TDC compression, and check the position of all your timing marks.

The more I think about it, I bet the timing is good...being the valves are a little too tight, they are going to have a greater degree of floating, between Intake and Exhaust strokes... Floating is the corrolation between the opening and closeing of the Intake versus the exhaust and the duration of that small gap between the two at a sustained time...So being the valves are tight, I am willing to bet the ticking is almost more of a labor knock, and the smoking will subside from the oil fill cap once she's back in check..