OMG what was I thinking, well have to learn now I am to far into it. Lol

Any tips tricks or suggestions would be great.
Also a list of any needed specialty tools would be great to. I think there is a tool for removing the valve lifter but I am not sure. Shoot I have not even figure out where the lifter is yet.

If I need to install new shims or pads, I think are one in the same, do I have to remove the cams?

Well I have been taking some pics so hopefully I can post a DIY or some funny pics of me pushing her up on the trailer to go to the mechanic.

 

is this on ur 7?

 

according to my manual, to check the valve clearence, you just use a thickness guage, but if you have to adjust it, then you must remove the cam, the valve lifter and then replace the shim to make it the correct hieght.

 

If it isn't will that affect your answer.

What the hell is Molybdenum disulfide oil?

It is the 1 bro.

 

Since you posted to general tech, I'm assuming you don't necessarily need information specific to your bike and that general information on the procedure itself would be helpful. I just went through this a few months ago on a much smaller bike, but I think the general procedure would be the same if your bike uses shims for clearence adjustments. Here's what I wrote up at that time - if you have any questions, just fire away. I'll try to help. It's really not that bad, but seeing the insides of your engine like that can be a little intimidating. But hey - it's just nuts and bolts, right? Famous last words

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_306..._/tm.htm#32614

 

Valve time...fun!!! lol

Before I dove into that one, I would grab the specs for the valves and check em first to make sure they need adjusting....aftermarket manuals suck...the regular yami manual is the way to go..that's the 5 valve is it not??? If I remeber right, the R1 doesn't require adjusting until 26,600 miles.....and then they are usually on spec. Ticking from the 5 valve is fairly common on those things..Is that why you are adjusting?? Not any help, I know...and ya, they shim under the plates..and yup, cams come out...They are usually good on those things tho'...I think Yami did a hell of a good valve train in those, and I would be surprised if they were out. My friend used to have one of those, so that's where I am remebering this info from...could be completely wrong ya know....lol

If I remeber right there is a site where you can get the entire 180 pg factory service manual on CD or downloaded to your computer for around $25..I'll see if I can remeber where the heck it was.....

 

http://sports.racer.net/engines/yamaha_yzfr1.htm

Here is the entire 480 page factory service manual for free...I clicked it to make sure...14 mb adobe download!! lol lol...I now own a Yami service manual!!! lmao !! lol lol

You need to download the 98-99 R1 manual, and then the 2000 R1 supplement...to get the complete manual...from the factory on that one, they used the 98-99 and only issued a small supplement for 2000....

Oh, and scroll down to the bottom right hand corner of that page and you'll see the downloads.....



.You owe me a Corona!!! lol lol lol lol

 

Nice post there nobrakes, I will spend the time to read it tonight, have to work right now, a shame when work gets in the way of the bike [:@].
I saw your diagrams for keeping track of the measurements and those will help for sure, I was unclear on this and the manual dose not give very good explanation. I will probably be getting back to you with some questions and thanks for the link. [sm=icon_cheers.gif]

Ahh a question already, how do I adjust the cams if I have to remove them, is that the timing or what?

 

Yea looks like the same one but I will have to check side by side to be sure.

About 16k ago I had a dealer do the valves and they f-up the bike telling me that since I had jetted my own carbs that the bike would need to be re-jetted after there valve adj. BS but that is another story, I ended up being directed to a tuning shop out here that said the cams were out of adjustment and after another 350.00 she was back to normal.

Well after yesterdays ride she was really ticking alot, supper loud. So I figure I might as well check them because I will never know for sure unless I do it and I do not want any more dealer f%@ks working on my bike. Also After the crap vale job, when you open the oil cap after riding I get smoke coming out of it, that's not normal right.

I will be adjusting or replacing the tensioner as well.

Do I need a tool to remove the lifter pads, it looks like I do but I can not tell for sure, and how do I adjust the cams or check to see if they are properly adjusted? Is that part of the timing or what?

The cold ones are here and waiting if your out this way, I live about 20 mins from Fontana

 

I briefly read through this info a while ago - it might be of some help a quick lesson on valves