So I'm still riding the 250 Eliminator here in Mammoth Lakes, CA, and even though we haven't had much snow, the temps have dropped. This week I'm switching to Castrol full synthetic 4T racing 5W-40W oil because when the temps drop below 20F the warning light stays on for more than the owners manual recommended 5 seconds. But now with the decreasing temps, I'm beginning to worry about the cooling system and the freezing point of coolants. If we don't get snow soon, I'm riding every chance I get. The current temp ranges I'm riding in are from a high of 35F to a low of 6F (as recorded by one of the ski area's weather reporting stations at work), and where I work is routinely 10 degrees colder than town. If anyone has read some of my previous posts about cooling, they know I had problems with overheating in the high desert this summer mainly because the EL250 radiator measures barely 6"X9", and the Sherwin Grade is a B'ch. What I would like to do is compare your advice with that of my new mechanic, (sorry he's a KTM certified mechanic and suggested the 5W-40W and even suggested switching to a single weight if that doesn't work). So if anyone has a recommendation on a coolant that won't freeze between 35F and say -10F it would be helpful. The last thing I want is to have something crack in our cold temps up here. Thanks in advance.

 

Hey TyCobb- I am using standard aluminum safe mix of coolant still with no issues just yet. I agree on lowering the oil digit although I was not really happy with my previous Castrol oil switch on the 10r in the summer. The oil pump pressure I am sure was checked out for proper pressure and the recommended viscosity was looked up before asking about the oil switch?

Hey TyCobb, if my wife does not like her new 250 Ninja, are you planning on selling that EL250 sometime?

 

"Hey TyCobb, if my wife does not like her new 250 Ninja, are you planning on selling that EL250 sometime?"
You didn't just tell her what she's getting for Christmas did you? I may be willing, but I just rolled 23,000mi, so you may not be. And to be honest, I'm beginning to have some doubts about the longevity of my ride in this cold weather. In addition to my thoughts on cooling (or better stated not freezing), unless I can get an oil that can provide lubrication on start up in temps from 6F-12F in less than 5 seconds then the bike has to be parked. Between my 2 overheating incidents this summer, and 4 occasions of pushing the 5 second rule to 6-8 seconds for the warning light to go out on start up, I'm getting worried I might be damaging the bottom end. On really cold nights when I'm riding down the mountain or around town at a moderate load I can feel a sensation through the pegs that almost feels like detonation. This became more pronounced after riding 30mi on reserve and I had to fill up at a different gas station without my usual 1/2 oz of SeaFoam. I know the top end is good, at 21,000mi when I had the valves done I had 3 "a little tight" and the rest within specs, all were set to the same factory spec, and the mechanic said it was the cleanest top end on a 23yo bike he ever saw, but noted a little cam wear. I want to find an oil test kit, where you send your used oil away and have it tested, to see the condition to see if there is anything bad there. I hope soon I'm forced to park it for a month or 2, because I plan to have my shop guy here in Mammoth pull some covers and measure some tolerances because I want to know before hand, if something is going bad. I'm comfortable being told it might last 2,000mi maybe less, because I'm willing to spend $600 bucks for a 250 eBay motor and switch parts to ride. But I wouldn't sell unless I was fully confident in what I was selling. But if your wife doesn't like the Ninja 250, and my bike is good to go, maybe a my bike and cash for her bike? Or if you have a line on a good EX500/Ninja500, or other Kaw middle weight (ZX-6E or the like), that would be even better if everyone comes out on a win/win. Sorry this is so long, just got to be honest. Officially the the designation is 1988 EL250-B2-US. It is currently registered, insured, and inspected in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania at my home address. I have the clean (never totaled) and clear (no liens) (mileage exempt) title with me here in CA. And any ideas on the bottom end feeling I have would be helpful, someone even said it was "cold clutch chatter with cold oil", but I don't ride off until I can roll some of the choke off (2-4min). : - )

 

Just keep it fresh; don't be like most people and leave it in the bike forever and then wonder why everything is crapped-up and doesn't work.......
I've been riding in very similar temps these past two weeks.

 

From what I have seen so far is that the top end oiling setup was not the best to begin with.

there is a test site in Reno off of greg blvd I think it was. Maybe it was Sparks, NV Otherwise, Amsoil will also give you a site for testing.

As far as your ride and selling, I was just throwing that idea out there. I am in that mode where I would like the wife to hit road trips because she is comfortable on her own ride. Whether it be one of the rides that we either have or may end up getting. I do not have an ER-6 though. The EX 500 rides well, so the EX 250 that we pick up should be the same but with a less fear of the Twist of the Wrist concern.

Otherwise, I really do not have any middle weight bikes to offer or to point you to in that regards.

 

Thanks guys. I had the radiator flushed and fresh fill at 21,xxx miles and at the same time the shop in Bishop changer the oil and filter. I have spent a week trying to find some place local meaning within a 150mi that can get a hold of Castrol 5W-40 4T. Even though the O'Rileys in Bishop is listed on the Castrol web site as a dealer, they never got back to me to tell me if they could get it (they didn't have it in stock). And every web site I use to order bike parts on line, the ones I trust, had it listed out of stock. I'm off tomorrow and plan on going and getting a good quality lite weight conventional oil (I have the filter), and having the shop swap it out and do another flush and fill of the radiator with a ratio good down to -10F or -15F. But before the changes, I'm going to have the guy here in Mammoth ride the bike for a few miles to see if he can tell me what the feeling is I have trough the pegs. It does fell like detonation, but with some of the problems I've had...just want to be sure it's not the bottom end. Thanks for the advice. And if any one knows if it would be cheaper to rebuild this winter or buy a low mileage motor and swap parts, that would help too.

 

Remember, if you have to add water, use distilled water only!

 

so true. Less flushing of the coolant system as well would be needed after using distilled water.