My 6r next to a customers custom 12r. Color is pretty close.



Pics dont do it justice. I had this paint matched as best as I could. It wasnt quite "candy" enough. In the sunlight it looked way better. The wheels were still kawi green. Just make sure if you have bondo or other patch putty, make sure its dried really good cause after its painted, it could soak up some paint and leave weird blotches of where your patches are.

 

Bleedn that's a good looking bike you got there.

 

Thanks Blue! It was my first bike. It was a salvaged bike. i think the guy died on it by the looks of the pics of it before my cousin fixed it up. Then I layed it down and had to repaint it to the color you see there. Used to be kawi green. Sold it yrs ago and it was painted many times after me haha. Dont know where it is now.

 

I ran into a similar problem painting the fork tubes on my "88 EL250. When I first got the bike the tubes had a lot of surface corrosion. I first used 60 grit, then 120 grit, then 600, and lastly I think 2000 grit, to smooth out the tubes. Cleaned the tubes with acetone, and let it dry for an hour. Then after taping everything off (I didn't take the front wheel off, bad move), I sprayed the tubes with DupiColor high gloss black that was self primering, and it was a good match for the original tuxedo black. 3 coats with 2 coats of DupliColor high temp. clear. Looked great after polishing it out, until you looked at the back of the tubes. Waited 3 days and sanded the tubes down again, this time with the wheel and caliper removed. I followed the same procedure as the last time with one hour between coats, but this day wasn't just hot, it was very humid, including a brief rain storm (I was doing this in a garage). As a result, the paint and the clear were never fully able to flash off and cure. As soon as I put the polishing compound after 4 days and began rubbing, it all just smeared. So my thinking is this. If it was a hot day and humid, the paint may have not flashed off and began to cure between coats. So each time you apply a new coat, the the paint underneath is still in more of a liquid state. After some research I found that for rattle can painting in the garage, it's best to do it on a day where the humidity is below 60% and in the morning when the winds are lower, regardless of the temps. And allow at least an hour between coats if the temps are less than 65-70F. You can see some before and after pics in my pics profile. Hope this helps.