thanx,

You were right about that clutch switch it was messed up. So i fix'd that and now the bike will crank in gear with the clutch pulled in. But still no spark.

the pick-up coil on my ohm meter reads between 250-300 today anyway. My ohm meter is crap. When the motor is cranking, the PU coil bounces between 150 and 250 ohms. So I was thinking that it probably works since it is picking up some sort of motion from the flywheel thing.

Also i have the stick coils out and the plugs just puched in. It should spark that way right? they don't need to be in the head to spark i don't think.

 

and it sounds like you have some smarts. Congrats

 

i decided to get a new pick-up coil and sure enough Still no spark. So hmmm i think the only thing left to replace is the wiring harness.

arg

 

you're correct on the plugs not having to be in the head.. the spark will jump to ground regardless..

have you tried BRAND new plugs?
i just thought of this.. a long time ago, when i crashed my 600, i knocked the timing out when the trigger coil rotor hit the ground and sheared the pin behind it on the crank.

i spent 15 damn hours trying to figure out why it was backfiring thru the carb and being stupid.. well, after i figured out th pin was sheared, i reset time, and attempted a start.. it fired up perfect then instantly dies.

wtf right..

so, i remove plugs.. checkity check EVERY F'ing thing on this *****.. no spark, no spark..

but EVERYTHINGS perfect and in tolerance.. got power going TO the colis and everything..
then, whilst cranking, i accidently bumped the #1 plug, which was reting on the valve cover.. i saw a bright blue arc jump!!

ahh.. the insulation in the plug was SOOO soaked with gas and fouled out from being out of time and not burning the gas off, that it was shorting right out around the electrode.

so, before going into the harness, try new plugs, and make sure they're well grounded to the valvecover or something metal..

saw it on a gixxer in my shop a while back, too.. ran fine.. put away.. rebuilt.. wouldn't start..

new plugs--- fired right up.

the ONLY thing that it can be now is something wiring-related tho if new plugs fails to resolve this issue..

i'd triple check that 6 volt feed, and test everything at the CDI connector, instead of at the part or it's separate connector.. ya know, just to make 100% sure you're getting the feed to and from the CDI's connector.

you're gonna get a variable ohmic value when cranking onthat coil.. it works like a guitar pickup.. theres a magnetic field.. the rotor passes thru it, and induces a small current in the coil. the current is sent to the CDI, amplified, then used to trigger the switching transistor gates/collectors in the unit.

what you're seeing is not really the resistance changing, but inductance, which is a totally different animal in the electrical world.

any time you have a couple wraps of wire around a core of any type (ferric, or air.. doesn't matter) you'll have inductance.

 

wow dude you really know your stuff, thanx for the info.

Unfortunately new plugs was the first thing i tried. So no luck there.
well i think i'm going to try checking for voltage again. see what i can find

 

have you ever heard of a computer for a kawasaki needing to be programed? A friend of mine said he got a used computer for a jet ski and the "used" computer was an exact match but had no spark until the shop programed it..... hmmm ??????

 

these CDI's are VERY basic.. if his was EFI, then i could suspect it, being they run a 32 bit digital Denso microcontroller, and have separate EEPROM for data and fault logging.

the newer ECUs on EFI stuff have a SH7052 chip, which is shared in the busa, subaru WRX, mazda RX-7 (FD3-S), SV650 and 1000, ZX 636/10/12/14, and a few other things..

but our CDIs are 16 bit i think, (if that) and VERY simple.. i doubt very highly that could be the case..
i took my 6's CDI and plugged it right into my 7-R, and it fired right up..

but yeah, unless it was a race ECU, or a snazzy new digital EFI unit, i'd bet my mom on that not being the issue..

 

I figured it wasn't the ECU needing programed. JUst sounded strange

Update on my situation....... So I decided to buy a new wiring harness. Unfortunately I forgot to get one that was for a california bike. So because mine is a california bike, the new wiring harness is missing just one connector. On the carb, above the butterfly throttle plate thing, there is a black thing that slides in and out at the top of the carb, basically restricting the flow of airinto the carb. Not sure what it is , but its only on the california bikes. So there are 4 of them and 4 plugs, those 4 plugs are the only ones missing from the wiring harness. I figured it would run without them, atleast temporarily.

So there I was.... Trying to get spark with the new harness. Sure as ****, no spark. So at this point I have replaced the pick-up coil, computer, tesed coil sticks, and new harness. Still no spark. So I was thinking maybe something in the ignition switch. Check this out, when I had the old wiring harness on, the headlights never worked, I figured maybe a bad relay or a short somewhere. Didn't think much of it. Well when i hooked up the new wiring harness THe lights work, BUT heres what happens... So i turn the ignition to the "ON" position, No headlights. Nothing. (rear lights are fine) But when I crank the motor and then let out, the lights come on and work fine, as i crank again the lights go out and when im done cranking, thelights sometimes come back on, and sometimes not. Thats puzzl'n me

I'm not sure if maybe the original computer is bad, and the replacement computerI got is not for a california bike, and won't work on the california harness. Butthe new computerdoes not work on the new harness either and the new harness is not for california bikes, so maybe that eliminates that issue.

Don't know completely stumped

 

holy chit man. you can't get a damn break.
the headlight thing sounds normal. the relay is supposed to latch when the motor starts to kep the light from killing the battery while you're cranking it over, but sometimes you'll get backfeel from the starter circuit and it'll latch the headlight relay somehow..

you're doubly sure the grounds and all that are good right? i think you said ya got a new keyswitch too? i'd check that 6 v feed again at the connector and run thru the switches.. gotta be something fixed, as in on the bike.. not wiring. not computer or coils. this is ridiculous..lol

as always, keep it posted up.

 

Yeah I am pretty fed up with it, but gotta keep on truck'n i guess.
I didn't replace the keyswitch. Do you think the ignition switch could be part of the problem? maybe it is partly working, maybe enough to get the starter going but nothing to the computer?

I'm not sure what would be the best way to check for that 6 v feed. Where and how should i do that? If i recall you had said to check it coming out of the computer. On my meter, Can i hook the positive to the 6 v lead (gray wire i think) and the negative to the ground and I should have 6 V while the motor is cranking, or as soon as the ignition is on?

I really appreciate your help dude. this is drive'n me nuts