alrighty, well hello everyone here at KF! looking for some advice, so i googled a kawasaki forum and found this. anyway, there is a 99 zx7r local that a friend of a friend is selling. besides needing new plastics this is what was said to me. the bike used to fun perfect. one day he jumped it with a running car and ever since then it will not start anymore. he asked a couple shops and he said they both said it sounds like the voltage regulator....ive done SOME, very minor research, and from what i could come up with, this seems like a common/legit explanation. any one else have any imput. i was thinking about picking it up b/c hes selling it pretty cheap (under 1k). he does have a new 954rr and has no use for this anymore. what do you guys think? i know it could be a bunch of different things, and i dont have it yet so i cant start testing anything out, just more or less if its a good deal, or am i gonna end up spending more chasing this problem down?



thanks!

 

anyone........anyone......bueller......bueller.... ...?

 

Bueller.....Bueller.....Nice I like it, hey wait that's what I always say.[8D] I got nothing for you on the bike, but I just wanted to say welcome.

 

thanks for the welcome....

 

I don't know a ton about bikes, but since my initials are JMM, I thought I'd chip in. Does it turn over? Does it have spark? Is it getting fuel? I think these ignition systems are partially battery powered which would cause a no start condition ifyou burnt out a fusible link. I'd bet that they overpowered a wire during the jump start or (hopefully not) shorted the computer. I had a friend bring over a ranger which they jump started and after they shut it off, it wouldn't start again. Apparantly, they crossed the cables originally and for some reason the computer worked until they shut if off, then it was junk.

 

It almost sounds like they jumped it backwards. Cause we jump my buddy's stunt bike with his truck all the time and it works everytime. Check your starting fuse.

 

nah.. not the regulator.. doubt it, anyway..

the reg unit's in the alternator case. it's just like a car alternator. the output rating is 30.7A at 14.4V at 6000RPM if you remove it for a load test.

the bikes are stupid sensitive on the electrical end cuz they underengineered in my opinion. vastly..

will it even crank?

we'll start with that.

if yes---> move to fuses and CDI inspection

fuses ok--> inspect starer circuit and meter switches and relayfor operation

fuse(s) blown--> main fuse? (30A on solenoid).... meter wiring, if no short is evident, replace fuse, attempt start.
sub circuit fuse?.... meter circuit for continuity to ground. replace and try again..



if no---> move right to fuse/junction box. remove, take apart.. may be a burnt trace on the circuit board. (remove fuses prior to board removal. the fuses will hold it in the case)

no burnt traces? --> jump power to relay and check for operation and continuity. its the one nearest the corner. type isdry contact form 1C relay. SPDT contact configuration.

burnt traces?.. scrape green insulation off with knife and solder a jumper around the burn. scrape off the burnt board. it is carbon. carbon is conductive. its a glass expoy board.. sigle sided and no internal traces/layers.

relay work?--> go to starter solenoid and test.

ok?--> (power at solenoid coil and at main terminals.. power going thru solenoid at operation time) go to starter and meter motor out. doubt this is bad, however.

not good?--> replace that bad boy. jump power with a screwdriver to test starter to make sure.. HOLD IN CLUTCH AND/OR MAKE SURE ITS IN NEUTRAL!!!

hm... i dunno.. i'm a pro on this electrical system.. play with it and let me know what yafind.. i need as many details as possible to help ya fix it.

anyways, good luck and welcome to KF!! keep me posted on this.

 

^^^ sounds awesome!! i havent bought it yet b/c i wasnt sure if i should. but im abouit 95% + that im gonna pick it up this weekend. ill start following ur list and ill let you know what i find. i appreciate it A LOT!!!!


oh, the kid also said he replaced the whole fuse box b/c he thought that was the problem, but didnt help.....

 

i love my 7, but like i said.. lol.. as an electrical engineer, i've certainly noted some bigass flaws in wiring design.

but yeah.... if its just electrical, it otta be easy to fix.. make sure (some how) it's mechanically sound. the motors are actually pretty bulletproof, with the exception of head gaskets at times on highly abused mills. they're good to about 400HP, and i'm building a turbo motor up for about 275CHP.. (bout 250 at the wheel..)

you CAN jump a bike off a car.. COMPLETELY do-able.. don't let the masses lie to ya. 12V is 12V is 12V.. whether its a boat or truck or car or tractor.. doesn't matter. BUT, polarity is the killer. you'll instantly get about 1000A surge when you cross two separate polarities from a car battery to another load. i saw it ALOT with dumbasses jumping their boats off their car for de-winterization start-ups, and not noting the red and black clips..lol a boat harness is alot of money. let alone the stator and regulator/rectifier units they completely toasted upon connection. typically at least $1000 in the marine world for that mistake.. and i'm talkin simple, 2 and 3 cylinder outboard motors!! not the badass 4 or 6 cylinder, 2 stroke ones that cost $10,000.

on a bike tho, it's a little less expensive. so, i'd honestly jump on that bike if the price is right, and for a few hundred (less than 500... should be..) you should be riding.

 

Kinda key words mentioned right there.