New Bike, Idle Issue, Please Help
#1
03-25-2008, 03:14 PM
New Bike, Idle Issue, Please Help
I recently picked up a 1990 Ninja zx600-D , it sat for 4 years and i recently got it running, cleaned the carbs, new plugs, i just cant bring it off idle, when i start it at first it revs very high and idles around 1400 rpm, it fluxuates alot up and down, if i twist the throttle it just stalls, or bogs out real bad and if i hold it there while bogging it will eventually rev nice for a few seconds and return to bogging and stalling, Any Ideas what can cause this ? its driving me nuts and i want to ride it so bad but with this issue i cant for safety reasons. in the new member area i have a few picsturs of it under the thread, Ohh ho ho iam new , If you can give me any suggestions ide appricate it alot.[X(][:@]
#2
03-25-2008, 04:42 PM
RE: New Bike, Idle Issue, Please Help
If you know for sure that the idle circuit/slow speed circuits are clean and screws being adjusted equally, I would check the synch of the carbs.
#3
03-30-2008, 08:11 PM
RE: New Bike, Idle Issue, Please Help
Cant find no vaccum leaks, carbs are spotless and synced .......still wont rev and stalls
#4
03-31-2008, 03:46 AM
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Roswell, NM
Posts: 5,432
RE: New Bike, Idle Issue, Please Help
Sounds like carbs....
What did you use to sync the carbs? Did you do it or have it done? Not trying to bust your chops, just tryin to narrow down the prob....
What did you use to sync the carbs? Did you do it or have it done? Not trying to bust your chops, just tryin to narrow down the prob....
#5
04-06-2008, 03:42 PM
RE: New Bike, Idle Issue, Please Help
ORIGINAL: BigRig18Wheeler
Sounds like carbs....
What did you use to sync the carbs? Did you do it or have it done? Not trying to bust your chops, just tryin to narrow down the prob....
Sounds like carbs....
What did you use to sync the carbs? Did you do it or have it done? Not trying to bust your chops, just tryin to narrow down the prob....
#6
04-07-2008, 01:06 AM
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Roswell, NM
Posts: 5,432
RE: New Bike, Idle Issue, Please Help
I still sounds like carbs to me and not a vacuum leak. Could be a vacuum leak, but I don't think so..... Try this out. With the bike running, spray ether around the carb area, doesn't take much...if you have a vacuum leak it should raise the idle of the motor. The vacuum leak will suck in the ether and cause the bike to run rich, raising the idle.
Preferably, get a vacuum gauge. If you don't have one, buy one. 15 bucks at a parts store. Hook the vacuum gauge up to the the carb syncing nipples. Just one.Hook it to #1 carb.Hold the idle at 2500 rpm and tell me what the vacuum gauge is reading. The needle on the gauge is going to jump around on ya. IE: it'll jump back and forth between 8-12 psi, etc..... also, I think that bike should have an air valve on top of the valve cover with a t splitter in it. 2 vacuum hoses probably run out of that tee splitter and the hoses should go to #2 and #3 carbs. Hook the vacuum gauge to that tee, so you can check the vacuum gauge readings on #2 and #3 at the same time. This should give a little less jump in the needle, and give me that reading. Should be very close to the same reading as checking #1 carb.....If you can do that, we can narrow down whether or not it is a vacuum leak, carb sync prob, etc....
Whole test should take an hour or so.....Not that hard to do, and you really can't mess anything up.
Also, when you rev the bike, can you smell fuel? is there any smoke? Does it run better hot than it does cold?
WHen you cleaned the carbs, how did the needle and seat look. They have little o rings that seal them, and usually when it sits that long, those o rings crack and leak, so the needle and seat does not do their job correctly. DId you check the adjustments on the floats? Where abouts do ya live? If you are any where close to the Indy area, I'll ride down and check it out for ya......Gives me summin to do and keeps me outta trouble. lol.
Preferably, get a vacuum gauge. If you don't have one, buy one. 15 bucks at a parts store. Hook the vacuum gauge up to the the carb syncing nipples. Just one.Hook it to #1 carb.Hold the idle at 2500 rpm and tell me what the vacuum gauge is reading. The needle on the gauge is going to jump around on ya. IE: it'll jump back and forth between 8-12 psi, etc..... also, I think that bike should have an air valve on top of the valve cover with a t splitter in it. 2 vacuum hoses probably run out of that tee splitter and the hoses should go to #2 and #3 carbs. Hook the vacuum gauge to that tee, so you can check the vacuum gauge readings on #2 and #3 at the same time. This should give a little less jump in the needle, and give me that reading. Should be very close to the same reading as checking #1 carb.....If you can do that, we can narrow down whether or not it is a vacuum leak, carb sync prob, etc....
Whole test should take an hour or so.....Not that hard to do, and you really can't mess anything up.
Also, when you rev the bike, can you smell fuel? is there any smoke? Does it run better hot than it does cold?
WHen you cleaned the carbs, how did the needle and seat look. They have little o rings that seal them, and usually when it sits that long, those o rings crack and leak, so the needle and seat does not do their job correctly. DId you check the adjustments on the floats? Where abouts do ya live? If you are any where close to the Indy area, I'll ride down and check it out for ya......Gives me summin to do and keeps me outta trouble. lol.
#7
04-07-2008, 01:31 AM
RE: New Bike, Idle Issue, Please Help
ORIGINAL: BigRig18Wheeler
I still sounds like carbs to me and not a vacuum leak. Could be a vacuum leak, but I don't think so..... Try this out. With the bike running, spray ether around the carb area, doesn't take much...if you have a vacuum leak it should raise the idle of the motor. The vacuum leak will suck in the ether and cause the bike to run rich, raising the idle.
Preferably, get a vacuum gauge. If you don't have one, buy one. 15 bucks at a parts store. Hook the vacuum gauge up to the the carb syncing nipples. Just one.Hook it to #1 carb.Hold the idle at 2500 rpm and tell me what the vacuum gauge is reading. The needle on the gauge is going to jump around on ya. IE: it'll jump back and forth between 8-12 psi, etc..... also, I think that bike should have an air valve on top of the valve cover with a t splitter in it. 2 vacuum hoses probably run out of that tee splitter and the hoses should go to #2 and #3 carbs. Hook the vacuum gauge to that tee, so you can check the vacuum gauge readings on #2 and #3 at the same time. This should give a little less jump in the needle, and give me that reading. Should be very close to the same reading as checking #1 carb.....If you can do that, we can narrow down whether or not it is a vacuum leak, carb sync prob, etc....
Whole test should take an hour or so.....Not that hard to do, and you really can't mess anything up.
Also, when you rev the bike, can you smell fuel? is there any smoke? Does it run better hot than it does cold?
WHen you cleaned the carbs, how did the needle and seat look. They have little o rings that seal them, and usually when it sits that long, those o rings crack and leak, so the needle and seat does not do their job correctly. DId you check the adjustments on the floats? Where abouts do ya live? If you are any where close to the Indy area, I'll ride down and check it out for ya......Gives me summin to do and keeps me outta trouble. lol.
I still sounds like carbs to me and not a vacuum leak. Could be a vacuum leak, but I don't think so..... Try this out. With the bike running, spray ether around the carb area, doesn't take much...if you have a vacuum leak it should raise the idle of the motor. The vacuum leak will suck in the ether and cause the bike to run rich, raising the idle.
Preferably, get a vacuum gauge. If you don't have one, buy one. 15 bucks at a parts store. Hook the vacuum gauge up to the the carb syncing nipples. Just one.Hook it to #1 carb.Hold the idle at 2500 rpm and tell me what the vacuum gauge is reading. The needle on the gauge is going to jump around on ya. IE: it'll jump back and forth between 8-12 psi, etc..... also, I think that bike should have an air valve on top of the valve cover with a t splitter in it. 2 vacuum hoses probably run out of that tee splitter and the hoses should go to #2 and #3 carbs. Hook the vacuum gauge to that tee, so you can check the vacuum gauge readings on #2 and #3 at the same time. This should give a little less jump in the needle, and give me that reading. Should be very close to the same reading as checking #1 carb.....If you can do that, we can narrow down whether or not it is a vacuum leak, carb sync prob, etc....
Whole test should take an hour or so.....Not that hard to do, and you really can't mess anything up.
Also, when you rev the bike, can you smell fuel? is there any smoke? Does it run better hot than it does cold?
WHen you cleaned the carbs, how did the needle and seat look. They have little o rings that seal them, and usually when it sits that long, those o rings crack and leak, so the needle and seat does not do their job correctly. DId you check the adjustments on the floats? Where abouts do ya live? If you are any where close to the Indy area, I'll ride down and check it out for ya......Gives me summin to do and keeps me outta trouble. lol.
I dont smell fuel when i rev the bike, that is if i can get it to rev, it bogs down real bad or stalls or somtimes it will bog abit then rev real good and die out, the vacuum check ill do tommorow, ill let you know the readings then, ill try the ether idea also, i did not look real close to the O rings in the seats to see, ill check them also. about riding over to check, pack your bags lol i live in pennsylvania , little town called pottsville, if you know yuengling beer you know where i live. thanks though for the info and the idea to check it out.
#8
04-25-2008, 10:01 PM
RE: New Bike, Idle Issue, Please Help
Its been awhile, but since it finally got warm i was playing with the bike, i did the tests to see if theres a a vaccum leak and theres not, i noticed a hose comming up over the air box and it hooks in between the 4 carbs on swivils i guess there called, there near the top of the carbs where the diaphrams are, if i block that hose it seems to run alot better and i can rev it nice, does that hose go on the nipple on the back of the fuel tank near the seat ?/
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