Hi gang.
New to this forum. I thought I would jump in with a real basic question. I just bought a 2014, KLX 250s. So far I'm impressed. I know what the bike is intended for and I don't expect it to be more. However, in the just over 100 miles of break in riding I've done, it has done everything better than I thought it would. Certainly there is more power to be had once broken in and able to rev safely. But, overall very pleased. My basic question is, have any of you, who have owned one of these bikes for any length of time, had any problems I should be aware of? I heard something about a weak cam chain adjuster? Is this something there is a upgrade or fix for? Or, should I even worry about it? Any info, on anything I should know, to prevent problems down the road, would be appreciated. Plus what are the most common upgrades? Such as slip on & jetting, suspension etc: thanks for your input ahead of time!
Mike C.

 

The cam chain tensioner may or may not go bad. It will be noticeable by rattling between 4000-6000 rpm. If/when you notice the noise, change to a manual tensioner. I happen to make them, starting with a request and some help from another member here, TNC. Many have picked up the part... fact is I just recently put one in the KLX250 I just bought. It had the rattle and I can tell you it doesn't now. BUT, unless you actually hear the noise don't do it yet. When the tensioners do fail, it is progressive and does not cause immediate damage. It would take a thousand or two miles to actually start to damage stuff. It will wear the cam chain and possibly damage the sliders with the chain whipping around. It would take a lot of wear, but I do remember one KLX300 rider who had it get so bad it skipped teeth causing a valve to hit the piston - but that would take a whole lot of miles.

If the tensioner does go bad don't do any of the short cut techniques to force adjustment, it will overtighten the cam drive with definite possibility for damage to the cam journals in a very expensive head.

Probably more importantly, for the new owner, is the general carburetion of the bike along with intake and exhaust restriction. Obviously that is not any danger to the bike, but that is where additional power can be had eventually.

The carburetion will be lean. Many - probably most - do jetting changes with hard brass. I will be going the same way I did on my KLX650, using a Thunder Products Dial-A-Jet, since it works so well on the 650 and has for the past 17 years. I guess I'll report on it as soon as I can.

The restriction is usually taken care of by either removing the air box lid and living with the intake roar, or by installing a snorkle from a KDX200 - at least that's what I understood and have on order, p/n 14073-1577. On the exhaust end it seems there are several methods; full exhausts, slip fit mufflers, KLX300 muffler, KLX300 head pipe, KLX300 head pipe and muffler, and I think there is some thread somewhere about cutting up the stock muffler (I wouldn't). The bike is fairly well stuffed up.

For now, the most important thing is to ride the snot out of it until it is time for the first check up where the valves are checked and reshimmed as needed. They call for it at about 600 miles, but we used to tell people 800-1000 miles. Don't be concerned with the tensioner yet, just listen to the bike every now and then after you get a couple thousand miles on it. Hear the rattle, fix the bike - don't fix what ain't broke.

 

What he said^^^^

Enjoy the ride time

 

^^^ yup!

Check out these pages too:
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...tion***-20710/

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...q-links-30733/

 

Thanks klx678.
That is exactly the info I was looking for. I will contact you when and if I start hearing the rattling sound. The input for the jetting sounds very similar to my experience with the KLR 650. Thanks for giving me a starting point.
Mike C.