A Magneto Which Refuses to Budge!!!
#1
A Magneto Which Refuses to Budge!!!
I have been trying to tear down a 1977 Ke250. After removing the top end & finding the crank sump full of brown, oily muck, I moved onto the magneto. The left sidecover was removed and I was pleased to see, other than a few lite rust stains on the magneto, the mag and interior was clean & dry. After easily removing the lock nut & washers I used a Proto 4-slot puller to try & remove the magneto. It is different from the magnetos I am familiar with, but could see the three, 8mm holes in the mag faceplate 120 degrees apart, so assume this is where the bolts needed to be mounted. In any event, several attempts to pop the mag off were of no avail. I tried tapping the mag with a rubber mallet, lightly heated the crank with a propane torch, applied Kroil to the area, but it just won't budge! I got a few shorter 8mm bolts & with a large 1/2 inch drive Craftsman breaker bar, applied as much pressure as I dared lest I possibly bend or bust the puller shaft, but the mag refused to pop. Am I missing something here? Some trick I have overlooked in my attempt to remove this reluctant magneto? Any suggestions outside of a sledgehammer would be appreciated...
#2
Me one, magneto zero
Well, I am pleased to answer my own post regarding the reluctant magneto! I made two more attempts today. On the last one I repeated the set-up of the day before. I cranked the mag puller with about 40 pounds of pressure or more. When the thing didn't break loose, I banged on the magneto with a brass mallet for about a minute. I then tried to add a bit more pressure by moving the breaker bar a degree or two, then repeat the banging. On the third try after as tight as I could get the puller for fear of it going off like a bomb, I rapped on the magneto & the whole thing blew off the crank with a loud report. The magneto, puller, & breaker bar flew three to four feet away. Fortunately I was cognizant of this possibility & stayed off to the side. The crank shaft was very clean & not rusted at all, as was the stator assembly. However, the inside of the crank may be another story...
#3
The way I have always removed flywheels and the like is to leave the nut on the shaft just slightly above the threads, get some pressure under either with a puller, crowbar or big screw driver and then tap the nut, it always pops off. But glad you got it off there.
#6
All done now
Well, with the magneto off I was able to bust down the remainder of the motor. I noticed a small hairline crack in two of the three magneto magnets when I was cleaning it off...likely the result of the tender mercies I administered while trying to get it off or when it went flying. I pulled off the right sidecase & was surprised to see all components sparkling clean! Someone had been in there before though, as the bolt heads on the clutch coverplate, main drive gear, & clutch housing were a bit buggered. I then split the cases & the tranny was also bright & shiny. Of course the crank itself was quite a mess, but I think a trip to the solvent tank & it will be fine. The most questionable component may be the left crank bearing, but I will make another assessment after it goes to the solvent tank as well...
#7
good deal on getting that apart!! i was a marine mechanic for a bit, and those motors AWAYS tend to have a seized component or 3, and they're always in the way it seems, rendering your job impossible without the removeal of said stuck part.
i've found that if i don't get a wheel or rotating assembly off in 5 minutes, i'll soak it in the best penetrant i have at the time, install a puller, torque it to "stop", and go grb lunch!
most times, just a consistent pressure being applied will coerce the crusty candidate off the crank. lol
i've even tried an overnight pull.. and to my surprise, the part slide right off the crank in the morning when i went to work on it! that was, of course i had tried the tapping, the heat, the oil, the torque-puller-and-walk-away method for a few hours..
strange stuff, but it seem to work for me!
i've found that if i don't get a wheel or rotating assembly off in 5 minutes, i'll soak it in the best penetrant i have at the time, install a puller, torque it to "stop", and go grb lunch!
most times, just a consistent pressure being applied will coerce the crusty candidate off the crank. lol
i've even tried an overnight pull.. and to my surprise, the part slide right off the crank in the morning when i went to work on it! that was, of course i had tried the tapping, the heat, the oil, the torque-puller-and-walk-away method for a few hours..
strange stuff, but it seem to work for me!
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jhoffy22
KLX 250S
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09-25-2011 05:35 AM