recenntly i have re put my cams back in and lined them up 32 pins away form each other. But now when i start my bike it makes i clicking sound liek the tensior did. I still had a bad tensior i know, when i losen the tensior the sound goes away but i still notice a slight click from the engine. Is this from having a bad ttensior or from placing the timing chain one pin off? O ya when i try to to take off it seems to want to kill it self imeedialy even with the tensoir lossened. im thinking maybe even tdo im sure i had it tdc the my markers may be off maybe i should try inbetween t and d.

 

You loosen the CCT and the noise goes away? That sounds goofy and dangerous to an engine, but I do not have a manual on this ride to say much. Let us know on what you find. It is hard to visualize your slight tick engine sound as well. You have a vid of it?

 

its sounds like hammring of the tensior once did but a lout lower now. i just check my tdc marks again and its coming out center.

 

Ignore the pin count. Use the cam sprocket alignment with the head. That's how it is done.

Too tight of tension can also cause engine noise. I learned that from a few riders who overtightened the manual tensioners they got from me. If you loosened up the tensioner then it clicked over a tooth, then you tightened it down you've got the cam chain tension too tight. Not good. If you want to retry the stock unit, take the cap off that has the spring in it, take off the tensioner, hold the pawl back, slide the tensioner rack back in, reintall the body, then put the spring and cap back on. This will allow the tensioner to take up the slack as it should "automatically". If it doesn't take up the slack and keep it - aka, cam chain noise - you need a new tensioner. At that point I think many riders would tell you to go with a manual unit. It can be adjusted to take up the slack and no more. Loosening the stock unit till it clicks, then retightening it is a sure way to put more pressure on the cam drive than should be and will make it wear faster. A manual unit actually adjusts out the slack without putting tension on the chain. That is the optimum situation - no tension and no slack = less wear and no chain slap.

 

you know what i will provide a video shortly and i think that clikcing sound is naturl for the klx lol it light click and after reviwing videos i think its fine. It idles fine and i forgot about having the kickstand down when trying to take off lol. But if the chain was off one pin what woudl th symtoms be. For now i have put a peice of metal behide the spring the inrrewww tension. The bolt requiers little losen but not much for the tension sound to go away again.

 

welcome to the world of overtightened cam chains and the myth that all Kaw engines are noisy. Be careful though, the "dues" for my letting it make noise was about $500 for parts and labor.

Do yourself a favor and verify where the ticking is coming from. I mentioned using a mechanic's stethoscope or a long handle screwdriver to do it. When fully up to operating temperature ticking valves are okay, better loose than too tight, but ticking cam drives indicate light chain slap depending on how loud the ticking is. And "Italian tune-ups" (aka reving the engine) don't fix much as was pointed out to me years ago by one of the mechanics in the shop where I worked.

By the way, they may click when the cam chain is too tight. I had a Zephyr 750 rider who had noise because he overtightned the manual tensioner. I went over it with him via email. Once done right it was quiet. Another on a KLX650 did the same, as did an Eliminator rider. I actually worked with the Eliminator rider on the phone as he readjusted the tensioner. Then he took a warm up ride and called back for the final adjustment. He actually had a ticking that was caused by the air injection pollution device on the Eliminators and others like the Zephers.

I could care less if you picked up the tensioner I make, I'm just letting you know that I got the "all Kawasaki engines are noisy" from both the Yahoo KLX650 Group and the Zephyr Zone. I ignored the clicking and rattling on one and it cost me a bunch of money, the other I ignored the myth and made the tensioner I needed... plus more. Seems cam drives shouldn't click when totally up to operating temps.

 

lol ya man sorry im 21 yr old battlign with school and my use to have job argggh. I appericate the patience and time you have taken. ya i notice the sound more by the valves but sound if it's echoing making it difficult to pin point. But i think it'snatural i will make a video to verify if helps. This was overall a nervous but great learnign expereeince this job presented me with. I acually tried getting a hold of you on your feed back sit. Giving i now how the funds for the order thank you for creating such a product also.