hi im from sydney Australia and not mechanically or technically inclined.Any suggestions or advice is greatly appreciated and i thank you for your time. Basically my problem is i cant get my bile to start,the likely cause or reasons are unknown so ill provide some information leading up to this dilemma. Essentially whilst riding recently i started to lose power& began to play with the idle under the seat because it was begining to stall often after starting and even warming it up for a while with the temp gauge increasing it would finally settle though not very often. Problem was several days after it kept getting worst and would take several attempts before it would kick over and i would have to rev it up to stop stalling even when the temp was half way up.I turned up the idle to get a better start and it helped alot but it would only do so at about 3000, but soon after whilst cruising smoke began2 come out of the exhaust, it was night and couldnt see what colour,it smelt like burning( oil like smell,) than all of a sudden the engine just died.Afterwards I couldnt even start it. Since than ive changed the oil& its filter and the sparkplugs,an internet site suggested comparing the plugs to analyse the problem,it most closely resmbles an oil problem.I also checked and the sparkplugs are firing,only the engine is not kicking over or its not igniting.Also the air filter intake(i think thats its name) connected to the carburetor is loose,both of them and am still in the process of trying to reconnect them and i think it may be taking more air which apparently affects or contributes to my diffilculty starting,i noticed 1 of them had been loose for a while but thought nothing of it, i also put my hand on the exhaust and felt only a little bit of pressure when turning it on. Further, because i played with the idle under the seat i dont know which way ive turned it and recently been informed clockwise is up,but i dont know where its sitting at now bcoz when i was tryn to start it i tried playing with it again. I have a service manual and have been attempting the repairs myself.On the bright side since ive changed all that it sounds alot better when trying to start it.I also checked the fuel by pouring it into a large bowl and noticed a little dirt and red paint( im assuming its from the tank)and i did my best to ensure it was clean when i put it back in. I hope this is enough information and welcome and deeply thank any advice you may provide.I have been seeking advice from where ever and whomever is gracious enough to take time to help me,as i know nothing about engines and learning all the time.Thank you very much for your time and i greatly appreciate any suggestions you may have and will take it as advice.

 

make sure that the basics are covered. Lines are clear, carbs clean, floats set, all vacuum lines and rubber are intact and clean. Synch after. New plugs are only good short term if used in a badly carbed engine.

edit: do not overfill the engine oil, so double check that

 

I don't know if you can get RXP down under but try a fuel treatment/ injector cleaner that dries water from gasoline. Drain your carb floatbowls also.

 

If you can get hold of a compression tester and the right adapter do a compression test. As you have the manual and if you're game check the tappet clearance especially the exhaust side to see if you have a valve riding. You don't have to drain and remove the radiator to do this just unbolt it and let it hang out in the breeze and if you're hands are not to big you've got room. Buying the dinky little Kawaka special tool is worth the time. I made one when I had a 250 and in labour it would have been cheaper to spend $Aus 70. My problem with mine a few years ago was crap in the tank shaving a small whisker of rubber of the tap gasket which lodged in the fuel cross pipe between the carbs. It took me 5 cleanings to track it down. Don't separate the carbs as you will then have to have them resynched. A quick and dirty compression test is to shove a finger over the spark plug hole and if you can hold it in while cranking then the rings are probably shot.

gammac

 

Thanks alot for your advice and time. I will try the compression tests,check the oil for water and radiator for oil to check as soon as i can figure out how to replace the rubber(manifold)pipes that connect the airfilter and carb without taking out the engine and airbox itself.Its already been 2days and frustrating, im scared ill break the seals (i think its called) on the spare air box i bought.Should i just try sliding out the pipes softly and changing them that way?I figure i should ensure that this is secured and fastened 1st before i try the compression test as too much air is going in because both pipes have completely come off the carb and 1 is pretty bent out of shape. Am i wrong in assuming that this must be done 1st b4 the compression test or can i do this independent without worrying about realising misleading results.Again thanks everyone for your wise advice and time you have given to helping newbies like myself.

 

Did any of you read what he said?

"Also the air filter intake(i think thats its name) connected to the carburetor is loose,both of them and am still in the process of trying to reconnect them and i think it may be taking more air which apparently affects or contributes to my diffilculty starting,i noticed 1 of them had been loose for a while but thought nothing of it, "

The boots need to be a good fit on the carburetors otherwise the engine sucks air and you will get the symptoms described, until that is fixed there is no point doing anything else.