1985 Ninja 900 won't crank - done due diligence - still nothing
#1
1985 Ninja 900 won't crank - done due diligence - still nothing
1985 Ninja 900 with 34K.
PROBLEM:
Won't crank. Not a peep except the solenoid click.
Hi everyone. Not my first bike.
Have been wrenching on bikes for decades, but electrics always turn my head around.
Need some help please.
Have owned for 3 years. Have ridden it about 1,500 miles. Runs well.
Was out riding one morning - all good, stopped for coffee, then went to start and nothing.
Was able to push start, and bike starts right up, drove home and she has sat since.
STATUS.
All lights come on in the dash.
Turn signals work.
Brake lights work.
Headlight won't work - until motor starts, which is normal.
Horn works.
SWITCHES.
Have validated that I have continuity / functionality with these switches:
Clutch switch. A-OK.
Run switch A-OK. (clearly that works, since I can bump start it) but validated it anyway ...
Kickstand switch A-OK.
Starter switch A-OK.
FUSES.
All blade fuses A-OK.
All the round circular fuses in the fuse box A-OK
WORK SO FAR.
When I use a fresh motorcycle battery and hook up to the standard battery leads of + and - , still same click sound from solenoid and run not a peep from the starter. Starter works when I jump directly from + battery to + starter Replaced the solenoid with used solenoid from ebay, and they both make the same noise. New solenoids aren't available, and I thought I might get lucky. However, still can't cross out solenoid. Dammit. Have thoroughly cleaned cables and contacts in fuse box, all lock out switches and solenoid.
QUESTIONS:
1. Do I need to validate the tranny neutral switch? The neutral switch lights up on the dash. Going to 2nd or 1st, the light goes out. I have to drain the oil to remove to validate tranny neutral switch which is a pain...
2. With the solenoid clicking, does that show that the solenoid is working?, or does it really show that I don't have enough amps to hold the electro magnet over? I don't see how that is, as I have damn nice new fully charged dry battery that cranks over my Suzuki 1100E with ease. Or does it indicate that the solenoid is throwing over, and the voltage should be leaving the solenoid, and not getting to the starter, or the circuit isn’t being completed - for some reason.
3. Would the next step be to follow the voltage after it comes out of the solenoid?
4. What’s next on the list?
Thanks so much from Ohio.
Cheers to all who throw out some insight, experience, or encouragement!
Graham
PROBLEM:
Won't crank. Not a peep except the solenoid click.
Hi everyone. Not my first bike.
Have been wrenching on bikes for decades, but electrics always turn my head around.
Need some help please.
Have owned for 3 years. Have ridden it about 1,500 miles. Runs well.
Was out riding one morning - all good, stopped for coffee, then went to start and nothing.
Was able to push start, and bike starts right up, drove home and she has sat since.
STATUS.
All lights come on in the dash.
Turn signals work.
Brake lights work.
Headlight won't work - until motor starts, which is normal.
Horn works.
SWITCHES.
Have validated that I have continuity / functionality with these switches:
Clutch switch. A-OK.
Run switch A-OK. (clearly that works, since I can bump start it) but validated it anyway ...
Kickstand switch A-OK.
Starter switch A-OK.
FUSES.
All blade fuses A-OK.
All the round circular fuses in the fuse box A-OK
WORK SO FAR.
When I use a fresh motorcycle battery and hook up to the standard battery leads of + and - , still same click sound from solenoid and run not a peep from the starter. Starter works when I jump directly from + battery to + starter Replaced the solenoid with used solenoid from ebay, and they both make the same noise. New solenoids aren't available, and I thought I might get lucky. However, still can't cross out solenoid. Dammit. Have thoroughly cleaned cables and contacts in fuse box, all lock out switches and solenoid.
QUESTIONS:
1. Do I need to validate the tranny neutral switch? The neutral switch lights up on the dash. Going to 2nd or 1st, the light goes out. I have to drain the oil to remove to validate tranny neutral switch which is a pain...
2. With the solenoid clicking, does that show that the solenoid is working?, or does it really show that I don't have enough amps to hold the electro magnet over? I don't see how that is, as I have damn nice new fully charged dry battery that cranks over my Suzuki 1100E with ease. Or does it indicate that the solenoid is throwing over, and the voltage should be leaving the solenoid, and not getting to the starter, or the circuit isn’t being completed - for some reason.
3. Would the next step be to follow the voltage after it comes out of the solenoid?
4. What’s next on the list?
Thanks so much from Ohio.
Cheers to all who throw out some insight, experience, or encouragement!
Graham
#3
Put a voltmeter onto the wire at the output of the solenoid to see if it is transmitting the battery voltage to the starter motor. If not then replace the solenoid. If it is transmitting the voltage then replace the motor if the voltage is not low. If it is too low to turn over the motor then the battery needs to be recharged or replaced.
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