'02 Ninja 500R Chain Noise (any help appreciated!)
#1
'02 Ninja 500R Chain Noise (any help appreciated!)
Hey guys, I'm a long time lurker, but don't post much. However, I have a problem that I can't figure out. I have a 2002 Ninja 500R with ~18K miles, totally stock, original chain and sprocket.
The chain seems to have a very tight spot, and it's making it hard to adjust it so that it is the right tension. Also, when I'm riding it, a loud clunk noise happens whenever it passes through this tight spot. This is more pronounced when I'm shifting up gears, and especially when I am just starting off from a standstill. The only way I can get it to stop is by tightening the chain, but this leaves it too tight, and I notice some red o-ring oil leaking after a test ride, so I quickly loosened it back up.
Do you have any suggestions as to how I could fix this? Do I need a new chain? I'm a college engineering student, so I'm broke but am pretty good with fixing things (although this is my first bike). Thanks for any help!
The chain seems to have a very tight spot, and it's making it hard to adjust it so that it is the right tension. Also, when I'm riding it, a loud clunk noise happens whenever it passes through this tight spot. This is more pronounced when I'm shifting up gears, and especially when I am just starting off from a standstill. The only way I can get it to stop is by tightening the chain, but this leaves it too tight, and I notice some red o-ring oil leaking after a test ride, so I quickly loosened it back up.
Do you have any suggestions as to how I could fix this? Do I need a new chain? I'm a college engineering student, so I'm broke but am pretty good with fixing things (although this is my first bike). Thanks for any help!
#2
Yep. New Chain time.
You MIGHT be able to clean and lube the hell outta that chain, and MAYBE work the tight spot out, but by the time you did that, you could have the new chain on and no more worries.
You MIGHT be able to clean and lube the hell outta that chain, and MAYBE work the tight spot out, but by the time you did that, you could have the new chain on and no more worries.
#3
Ah, thanks for the help. I think I'll try to work out the tight spot (as WD-40 is a wee bit cheaper than a new chain, and I've got plenty of free time since it's summer). One question though, is there a way to figure out the bad links (I'm assuming there is just one spot where the links are bad, since the chain feels fine while rotating it except in one spot).
Say I have the bike on the center stand, and I'm rotating the wheel, and it's rotating fine, until one spot where it gets hard to turn (and the chain tightens), where would the bad links be in relation the front and/or rear sprockets? Thanks!
Say I have the bike on the center stand, and I'm rotating the wheel, and it's rotating fine, until one spot where it gets hard to turn (and the chain tightens), where would the bad links be in relation the front and/or rear sprockets? Thanks!
#4
Well, the bad link/s could be on the front sprocket or rear sprocket at that point. If you are wanting to isolate the bad links themselves down... I would probably put the bike on the center stand, loosen the rear to get slack in the chain, then check it piece by piece by hand in the slack.
Hve you checked ebay, etc for a new chain? Sometimes you can find a deal for 30 bucks or so for a new non performance/ regular ol chain.
If you are just set on keeping your chain for now, or you have no other choice...clean the heck out of it. wd and a stiff brush, etc.... Then soak it in 80w90. Let the excess drip off, work each link manually by hand, wipe off the excess, re adjust and align. Then make sure you keep it lubed every 500 miles. Chain wax, etc...
Hve you checked ebay, etc for a new chain? Sometimes you can find a deal for 30 bucks or so for a new non performance/ regular ol chain.
If you are just set on keeping your chain for now, or you have no other choice...clean the heck out of it. wd and a stiff brush, etc.... Then soak it in 80w90. Let the excess drip off, work each link manually by hand, wipe off the excess, re adjust and align. Then make sure you keep it lubed every 500 miles. Chain wax, etc...
#6
Here, try this guy's ebay store: Sledpartsguy
I just got a chain and sprocket set for $75 shipping included. Ditch the bad chain asap. Or, if you just don't have the bucks, don't use wd-40 on your chain, unless it's just to clean it. It's totally inadequate for a chin lube. A guy at my local bike shop turned me onto this:
http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/pro...=74920&affid=4
Follow the directions, and you will have a happy chain. It lasts much longer than foaming oils.
George
I just got a chain and sprocket set for $75 shipping included. Ditch the bad chain asap. Or, if you just don't have the bucks, don't use wd-40 on your chain, unless it's just to clean it. It's totally inadequate for a chin lube. A guy at my local bike shop turned me onto this:
http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/pro...=74920&affid=4
Follow the directions, and you will have a happy chain. It lasts much longer than foaming oils.
George
#7
Yeah, I could get a chain and sprocket set, but I don't have a chain linking tool.
I was just using the wd40 to clean it, I have some chain wax that I coat it with afterwards (well after, to let the wd40 evaporate).
I'm heading out now to get some more wd40, and a wire brush to scrub it down real good. I want to take the chain off and soak it, but I don't have the chain tool.
I was just using the wd40 to clean it, I have some chain wax that I coat it with afterwards (well after, to let the wd40 evaporate).
I'm heading out now to get some more wd40, and a wire brush to scrub it down real good. I want to take the chain off and soak it, but I don't have the chain tool.
#8
check it out. 40 bucks for a new chain.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NINJA...spagenameZWDVW
and if you look at ebay you can get a chain tool for about 20 bucks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NINJA...spagenameZWDVW
and if you look at ebay you can get a chain tool for about 20 bucks.
#9
I have loosened up links by soaking the chain in diesel for a day or two, but still that does not seem to last long. Get the right equipment, plus a new chain and sprockets. You will lose money and get more aggrevated if you do not.
#10
When a drive chain breaks while riding, it can:
1) lock up the rear wheel "INSTANTLY" (crash & burn)
2) act like a whip on its way around the sprocket and slice your left calf open (ouch!!!)
3) coil up around the front sprocket and crack the case (big bucks to fix)
JUST REPLACE IT BEFORE YOU GET HURT.
Also: lube your chain often.
Good rule of thumb, check fluids, chain, and air pressure every tank of gas...
1) lock up the rear wheel "INSTANTLY" (crash & burn)
2) act like a whip on its way around the sprocket and slice your left calf open (ouch!!!)
3) coil up around the front sprocket and crack the case (big bucks to fix)
JUST REPLACE IT BEFORE YOU GET HURT.
Also: lube your chain often.
Good rule of thumb, check fluids, chain, and air pressure every tank of gas...
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