ZZR 600 Oil Change Intervals
#1
ZZR 600 Oil Change Intervals
I'm buying a 2007 ZZR 600 with 1800 miles. As for scheduled maintenance, the current owner got the oil change done at 800 miles as recommended by Kawasaki.
Do I need to change the oil prior to next season or will it be alright? I don't intend to winterize, just to start it up every week and drive it every two weeks for a couple of miles. Maybe keeping the fuel tank full with some stabilizer in there. Doesn't seem to make sense to change oil that only has 1000 miles on it.
It will be in a heated apartment garage.
Do I need to change the oil prior to next season or will it be alright? I don't intend to winterize, just to start it up every week and drive it every two weeks for a couple of miles. Maybe keeping the fuel tank full with some stabilizer in there. Doesn't seem to make sense to change oil that only has 1000 miles on it.
It will be in a heated apartment garage.
#2
I ride mine through the winter as well, definitely throw some stabilizer in the tank. I didn't last year and it gunked up the fuel filter pretty bad. I wouldn't worry about the oil if you are going to ride it. The danger would be moisture getting in there during inactive periods and causing rust. Is it necessary, maybe not, but it is a good idea just to be sure.
#3
how did u fix the gunked up filter?
How can I check to see that it's not gunked from first owner?
It only has 1800 miles and had oil/maintenance at 800 miles this time last year. Just hinsoected inspected Friday but now u have me paranoid haha.
How can I check to see that it's not gunked from first owner?
It only has 1800 miles and had oil/maintenance at 800 miles this time last year. Just hinsoected inspected Friday but now u have me paranoid haha.
#5
It took a few years for mine to get "gunk". Just don't worry about it and use the stabilizer. To fix it I ordered a new one from Kawasaki.
#6
Don't start it up and ride for a couple of miles. This is much worse than just leaving it standing. Even worse is starting it without riding it. Cold starts dilute the oil because of fuel blow-by from the rich starting mixture, and contaminate it with unburnt acidic hydrocarbon products. These are mostly burnt off along with the diluting petrol once the motor is up to temperature, but this takes about 6 or 7 miles. Short runs are OK interspersed with longer runs, but a winter of short start ups will result in enough acidic etching of bearing surfaces to have a marked effect on the engine life.
Best to do an oil change before winter and then leave the bike unused. If you do start it, go for a decent ride and repeat at least every two or three of weeks. New oil left over winter will be fine to ride away on next spring.
Oil and filter must be changed after 1 year even on a very low mileage bike. Even new oil starts to get contaminated, actually more than on a well used bike, and the contaminants work on the engine internals while the bike is standing.
Can't comment on fuel stabiliser. Over here we wouldn't even think about using it for anything less than a year, but your fuel may be not so good. Keep the tank full to minimise condensation. Best to drain the fuel system though - carbs or injectors - by running the motor with the fuel turned off until it stops. Not too easy with an EFI bike - you hasve to disconnect the pump. With a carbed bike with vacum fuel tap, pull the vacum line off the tap. It's the carbs and injectors that get gunked up as the fuel evaporates leaving particulate matter - like a varnish - behind, so get them dry.
An unheated but well ventilated garage is better than a heated one, as long as the temperature is above the dew point.
Rob
Best to do an oil change before winter and then leave the bike unused. If you do start it, go for a decent ride and repeat at least every two or three of weeks. New oil left over winter will be fine to ride away on next spring.
Oil and filter must be changed after 1 year even on a very low mileage bike. Even new oil starts to get contaminated, actually more than on a well used bike, and the contaminants work on the engine internals while the bike is standing.
Can't comment on fuel stabiliser. Over here we wouldn't even think about using it for anything less than a year, but your fuel may be not so good. Keep the tank full to minimise condensation. Best to drain the fuel system though - carbs or injectors - by running the motor with the fuel turned off until it stops. Not too easy with an EFI bike - you hasve to disconnect the pump. With a carbed bike with vacum fuel tap, pull the vacum line off the tap. It's the carbs and injectors that get gunked up as the fuel evaporates leaving particulate matter - like a varnish - behind, so get them dry.
An unheated but well ventilated garage is better than a heated one, as long as the temperature is above the dew point.
Rob
Last edited by williamr; 11-18-2008 at 10:02 AM.
#7
I agree on just starting the bike up without a good long ride. Its a waste of time and bad for the motor. Gas can start going bad within a month so I would for sure use a fuel stabilizer to make sure it is good when its time to ride.
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