Not really, but I needed some better braking on a budget and breaking in pads on a worn disk is not the best way.

So I bead blasted the rotors to help/assist a better break in. I wish I took a pic of the glazed rotors to give a better example, but I did not. Here is a pic of the resurfaced rotors off of my 10r.



I have only one more weekend this year to be able to test them. I will post up thoughts on this cleaning after the track weekend and how they performed.

 

First, I will say I like the idea of bead blasting, it may speed up pad seating onto a grooved rotor through the abrasive surface which will be wiped smooth in the process. It also makes engineering sense here too. Now for some additional thought:

A friend of mine had a friend who roadraced a TZ750 back in the 70s and 80s in the AMA GP class as a privateer. He was top twenty normal and top ten at times, running Daytona, Mid Ohio, and the rest. They met when they were drafted into the service. My friend was reading Cycle or Cycle World coverage of Daytona and his soon to be close friend said, "Hey, that's me!" pointing to a picture. My friend thought "sure..." rollling his eyes, but it WAS the guy. I met up with the guy several times over the years. He worked as a cop and eventually in engineering after retiring, doing a stint at Crane Cams, but usually free lancing in a life like most of us would get a kick out of doing - but back to the story...

He gave my friend static about having his rotors turned on his Honda Civic, because of normal grooving wear, during a brake job. His comments make total engineering/physics sense. The engineering/physics facts are:

1) The grooving actually provides more swept brake area since the grooves make peaks which have more distance up and down than across the base - more swept area after the pads bed in and they will without problem. It may be minimal, but it is there.

2) The grooves are like finning, providing more air turbulence over the rotor and giving more cooling. Same as above, maybe minimal, but it is there.

3) Machining rotors takes away material that can help absorb and then dissapate heat too. But it does make them lighter. In racing it may be a wash. On the road it doesn't really matter.

Now I know this sounds like BS to many, but really - think about it. It just doesn't make sense to machine rotor surfaces with normal grooving. If course if they get too thin or deeply grooved beyond normal they should be replaced.

Then there is the possibility that turning a rotor can change stress and lead to warping. And for what it's worth a warped rotor that is turned to get rid of the warp may warp again due to the stresses in the casting. I had that when some shop turned rotors on my old Mazda rather than replaced them. I always replace them if warped.

 

Thanks for the added info klx678. I do not like turning for the most part either, there is a service limit, but still...
Peening just cleans the embedded brake material and dimples the surface. Also does not degrade the structural integrity of the disk like turning will. (As you mentioned above), and like you mentioned the dimples will be wiped smooth after everything is bedded in anyway.
This peening enables me to get rid of the existing embedded pad particulates from the rotor and aide for a better break in for the other compound pads that I want to test. (and it is cheaper to do) It sounded like a good plan at the moment anyways. lol

 

Try stainless steel brake lines?

 

lol, thanks MaverickAus for the response. Suspension, brakes and tires are generally the first things checked and or modified. I have the galfer lines on this ride with the dual banjo at the M/C and not on the right caliper.

I agree though, going SS is a good improvement but is only part of the puzzle it seems for the second gen 10r. Yes, I have the nissin calipers from an 07 6r on her which really work well with the SS lines. Trying out pads right now/still. Thanks MaverickAus for the post/motivation