Buying a ‘04 Ninja with no keys
#1
12-03-2018 | 08:11 PM
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2
Buying a ‘04 Ninja with no keys
Hey y’all,
I was at an auto auctio last weekend and saw a 2004 Ninja 250. I didn’t go there’s looking for a motorcycle but suddenly I wanted one. I asked about it and they guy told me it was donated and has a title but no keys. But I could have it for $500
I found a new new ignition with keys on amazon for like $40 but that’s not the problem.
Since it doesn’t have keys I don’t know if it runs or anything. Physically it doesn’t look in bad shape but that’s all I can tell. I’m a car guy but know absolutely nothing about motorcycles.
Is there anything I can do to get an idea of if this bike will run well or not without starting it? Things to look for? I know $500 isn’t much but I don’t want to blow it on a motorcycle that doesn’t even run.
So if anyone has any suggestions I’d appreciate it! The bike didn’t sell that day so I can go back and look at it in depth no time limits or anything
I was at an auto auctio last weekend and saw a 2004 Ninja 250. I didn’t go there’s looking for a motorcycle but suddenly I wanted one. I asked about it and they guy told me it was donated and has a title but no keys. But I could have it for $500
I found a new new ignition with keys on amazon for like $40 but that’s not the problem.
Since it doesn’t have keys I don’t know if it runs or anything. Physically it doesn’t look in bad shape but that’s all I can tell. I’m a car guy but know absolutely nothing about motorcycles.
Is there anything I can do to get an idea of if this bike will run well or not without starting it? Things to look for? I know $500 isn’t much but I don’t want to blow it on a motorcycle that doesn’t even run.
So if anyone has any suggestions I’d appreciate it! The bike didn’t sell that day so I can go back and look at it in depth no time limits or anything
#2
12-03-2018 | 09:55 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,561
From: Delaware, Ohio
1st Gear Member
Take off either the helmet lock or pull the ignition switch off and look for a number on it. Should be a key number and you should be able to buy a key from Kawasaki or possibly have one cut by a lock smith if Kawasaki allows them to be cut. We used to be able to make Curtis keys for Hondas based on the key code. I don't remember if we did Kawasaki though. Odds are you may be able to work with a dealer to get the keys made or gotten from Kawasaki. Otherwise you'll need to get full lock set including fuel tank cap. Good fortunes to you in the endeavor.
#3
12-04-2018 | 03:40 AM
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2
Take off either the helmet lock or pull the ignition switch off and look for a number on it. Should be a key number and you should be able to buy a key from Kawasaki or possibly have one cut by a lock smith if Kawasaki allows them to be cut. We used to be able to make Curtis keys for Hondas based on the key code. I don't remember if we did Kawasaki though. Odds are you may be able to work with a dealer to get the keys made or gotten from Kawasaki. Otherwise you'll need to get full lock set including fuel tank cap. Good fortunes to you in the endeavor.
Also this is the ignition I was going to get to replace the current one with no keys https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-Ig...0AAOSw~1FUYnMM
so provided the bike has nothing else wrong with it would this be all I needed to do? Tell me if I’m wrong but $500 for the bike + $37 for the ignition (provided everything works) means $537 for a fully working bike which doesn’t sound like a bad deal to me
#4
12-04-2018 | 02:22 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 233
1st Gear Member
$537 for a fully working bike is not a bad deal, but $537 for an almost 15 year old 250cc bike won't be much of a bargain if it needs much work. So, I'd say it's better to get a key made and try to get a better idea of what you are getting into. Do you know how long the bike has been sitting? Sitting is not great for bikes and many parts continue to age regardless of no miles being added.
I'm no great mechanic, but here are a few things you'd want to think about:
Engine & Transmission: no real way to know what could be wrong without a test ride. If either is bad, could easily end up paying more than the bike is worth to get it running.
Tank -- if it's been sitting long, you will want to drain the tank and clean it.
Oil -- plan to change oil and filter.
Brake fluid -- plan to change.
Air filter -- a bit more involved than cars. Some can be washed and re-used, some not. About $20 for non-resuable, about $60 for reusable.
Battery -- some motorcycle batteries require maintenance. If it's been sitting a while, figure on replacing the battery.
Chain -- make sure to lube it before even a test ride if it's been sitting. That's easy, a can of spray lube (WD-40 o.k. for test ride, but I don't recommend long term) and a paper plate or similar to keep the lube off the back tire. Check sprocket for signs of bad chain maintenance (gear teeth ground down)
Tires -- even more important on a bike than on cars, if tires are old (5 to 8 years, depending who you listen to, from the date stamped on them) then even if they look good they can have layers that crack like old rubber bands once you start riding it.
Carbs -- I believe that 2004 is carbed, so if it's been sitting it will probably need to be cleaned. To test, you could add some Techron or Seafoam. While I like Seafoam, if it's been sitting long Techron may be better to use, as Seafoam can sometimes do "too" good of a job and clog up the carbs with what it breaks free.
Cables -- brake, clutch, need to be lubed. Not a big deal.
All other rubber -- cable housings, gaskets, etc., continue to age while sitting, just be aware.
These are the things that come to mind, but I'm no great mechanic. You may want to check with Ninja owners on this forum:
I'm no great mechanic, but here are a few things you'd want to think about:
Engine & Transmission: no real way to know what could be wrong without a test ride. If either is bad, could easily end up paying more than the bike is worth to get it running.
Tank -- if it's been sitting long, you will want to drain the tank and clean it.
Oil -- plan to change oil and filter.
Brake fluid -- plan to change.
Air filter -- a bit more involved than cars. Some can be washed and re-used, some not. About $20 for non-resuable, about $60 for reusable.
Battery -- some motorcycle batteries require maintenance. If it's been sitting a while, figure on replacing the battery.
Chain -- make sure to lube it before even a test ride if it's been sitting. That's easy, a can of spray lube (WD-40 o.k. for test ride, but I don't recommend long term) and a paper plate or similar to keep the lube off the back tire. Check sprocket for signs of bad chain maintenance (gear teeth ground down)
Tires -- even more important on a bike than on cars, if tires are old (5 to 8 years, depending who you listen to, from the date stamped on them) then even if they look good they can have layers that crack like old rubber bands once you start riding it.
Carbs -- I believe that 2004 is carbed, so if it's been sitting it will probably need to be cleaned. To test, you could add some Techron or Seafoam. While I like Seafoam, if it's been sitting long Techron may be better to use, as Seafoam can sometimes do "too" good of a job and clog up the carbs with what it breaks free.
Cables -- brake, clutch, need to be lubed. Not a big deal.
All other rubber -- cable housings, gaskets, etc., continue to age while sitting, just be aware.
These are the things that come to mind, but I'm no great mechanic. You may want to check with Ninja owners on this forum:
#5
12-04-2018 | 02:28 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 233
1st Gear Member
P.S. -- If you haven't already, you may want to confirm what kind of title the bike has. If salvage title I would not waste time with it.
Also, just occurred to me, in addition to the gas cap you may need the key to pop the seat off to access the battery, fuses, wiring, and toolkit (if it is still there).
Also, just occurred to me, in addition to the gas cap you may need the key to pop the seat off to access the battery, fuses, wiring, and toolkit (if it is still there).
Last edited by Rob9876; 12-04-2018 at 03:47 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post