Belt final drive
#1
11-24-2008, 01:44 AM
Belt final drive
Am I correct in saying that way back the EN500 had final belt drive. Now why in heck did Kawasaki change to chain? Thanks, Craig
#2
11-24-2008, 06:31 AM
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: terrorizing southeastern norf carolina
Posts: 2,092
dunno.. belts are the most efficient form of power transmission..
BUT, they absolutely HAVE TO be perfectly lined up, otherwise the teeth will wear eneven and it'll be noisy and kill the belt.
they're VERY finicky.. i mewan.. REAL bad..
great when they're set up, very nice and smooth, my cruiser was belt driven.
chain drives are just cheaper to make, and easier to work with and maintain. not 100% sure why they shyed from them tho..
BUT, they absolutely HAVE TO be perfectly lined up, otherwise the teeth will wear eneven and it'll be noisy and kill the belt.
they're VERY finicky.. i mewan.. REAL bad..
great when they're set up, very nice and smooth, my cruiser was belt driven.
chain drives are just cheaper to make, and easier to work with and maintain. not 100% sure why they shyed from them tho..
#4
11-24-2008, 01:58 PM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indianapolis and Toledo
Posts: 5,599
For high torque applications like wheelies and such, chains are more reliable. I would also prefer a chain for high speed like 150 mph and above. I know the belts are very reliable these days but I would not want a belt on my ZX14. I think it would eat belts!
#5
11-25-2008, 01:04 AM
I prefer chain drive on the more hp demanding machines. Would think that a belt drive would be satisfactory for a 50hp 500cc machine.
#6
11-25-2008, 03:08 AM
Are belt drives as adjustable as chain? We can change sprocket sizes to tune the bike to our purposes. A belt does not seem like it would be able to do that as well, it would just slip right?
#7
11-25-2008, 09:40 AM
All the belt final drives I've seen are toothed belts, so no slip. The problem is that there are very few, if any, suppliers of aftermarket sprockets. The other problem is that no one has yet managed to fit a belt drive on anything with more than about 50 bhp without it self destructing.
That said, once fitted they tend to stretch very little - usually just a bit when new, and need no lubrication, so they're quiet, clean, and effectively have a built in shock absorber that on some bikes has allowed the rear wheel to be built without the usual cush drive.
Rob
That said, once fitted they tend to stretch very little - usually just a bit when new, and need no lubrication, so they're quiet, clean, and effectively have a built in shock absorber that on some bikes has allowed the rear wheel to be built without the usual cush drive.
Rob
#8
11-25-2008, 02:52 PM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indianapolis and Toledo
Posts: 5,599
Yeah, and one sharp gravel between the sprocket and belt equals 160 dollar belt, and at least 500 dollars labor on a Harley, probably more. The repair estimate book says 10 hours.
On a Harley, the rear suspension has to be removed along with the oil tank, inner and outer primary, and starter. At least on a Fatboy, it is one hell of a job! I have did it on mine.
On a Harley, the rear suspension has to be removed along with the oil tank, inner and outer primary, and starter. At least on a Fatboy, it is one hell of a job! I have did it on mine.
#10
11-26-2008, 10:15 AM
Yeah, and one sharp gravel between the sprocket and belt equals 160 dollar belt, and at least 500 dollars labor on a Harley, probably more. The repair estimate book says 10 hours.
On a Harley, the rear suspension has to be removed along with the oil tank, inner and outer primary, and starter. At least on a Fatboy, it is one hell of a job! I have did it on mine.
On a Harley, the rear suspension has to be removed along with the oil tank, inner and outer primary, and starter. At least on a Fatboy, it is one hell of a job! I have did it on mine.
Rob