Belt final drive
#2
11-24-2008 | 06:31 AM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,092
From: terrorizing southeastern norf carolina
dunno.. belts are the most efficient form of power transmission..
BUT, they absolutely HAVE TO be perfectly lined up, otherwise the teeth will wear eneven and it'll be noisy and kill the belt.
they're VERY finicky.. i mewan.. REAL bad..
great when they're set up, very nice and smooth, my cruiser was belt driven.
chain drives are just cheaper to make, and easier to work with and maintain. not 100% sure why they shyed from them tho..
BUT, they absolutely HAVE TO be perfectly lined up, otherwise the teeth will wear eneven and it'll be noisy and kill the belt.
they're VERY finicky.. i mewan.. REAL bad..
great when they're set up, very nice and smooth, my cruiser was belt driven.
chain drives are just cheaper to make, and easier to work with and maintain. not 100% sure why they shyed from them tho..
#4
11-24-2008 | 01:58 PM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,599
From: Indianapolis and Toledo
For high torque applications like wheelies and such, chains are more reliable. I would also prefer a chain for high speed like 150 mph and above. I know the belts are very reliable these days but I would not want a belt on my ZX14. I think it would eat belts!
#6
11-25-2008 | 03:08 AM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 8,820
From: Liberty Twnshp, OH
Are belt drives as adjustable as chain? We can change sprocket sizes to tune the bike to our purposes. A belt does not seem like it would be able to do that as well, it would just slip right?
#7
11-25-2008 | 09:40 AM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 597
From: Cheshire UK
All the belt final drives I've seen are toothed belts, so no slip. The problem is that there are very few, if any, suppliers of aftermarket sprockets. The other problem is that no one has yet managed to fit a belt drive on anything with more than about 50 bhp without it self destructing.
That said, once fitted they tend to stretch very little - usually just a bit when new, and need no lubrication, so they're quiet, clean, and effectively have a built in shock absorber that on some bikes has allowed the rear wheel to be built without the usual cush drive.
Rob
That said, once fitted they tend to stretch very little - usually just a bit when new, and need no lubrication, so they're quiet, clean, and effectively have a built in shock absorber that on some bikes has allowed the rear wheel to be built without the usual cush drive.
Rob
#8
11-25-2008 | 02:52 PM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,599
From: Indianapolis and Toledo
Yeah, and one sharp gravel between the sprocket and belt equals 160 dollar belt, and at least 500 dollars labor on a Harley, probably more. The repair estimate book says 10 hours.
On a Harley, the rear suspension has to be removed along with the oil tank, inner and outer primary, and starter. At least on a Fatboy, it is one hell of a job! I have did it on mine.
On a Harley, the rear suspension has to be removed along with the oil tank, inner and outer primary, and starter. At least on a Fatboy, it is one hell of a job! I have did it on mine.
#10
11-26-2008 | 10:15 AM
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 597
From: Cheshire UK
Yeah, and one sharp gravel between the sprocket and belt equals 160 dollar belt, and at least 500 dollars labor on a Harley, probably more. The repair estimate book says 10 hours.
On a Harley, the rear suspension has to be removed along with the oil tank, inner and outer primary, and starter. At least on a Fatboy, it is one hell of a job! I have did it on mine.
On a Harley, the rear suspension has to be removed along with the oil tank, inner and outer primary, and starter. At least on a Fatboy, it is one hell of a job! I have did it on mine.
Rob