how to: sprocket change
#1
how to: sprocket change
The bike in this example is my bike, a 01 ZX-7R, but the concept should work for any bike.
This setup was a -2+2 conversion. For most people a -1+2 is normal. Both allow for the same chain to be used
Tools needed:
- 8 mm socket
- 10 mm socket
- 14 mm socket
- 1 1/16" impact socket ( i orignally used a reg socket but I broke it, so definatly get a impact socket)
- breaker bar (I used a 32" long 1/2" drive)
- hammer
- screwdriver (both phillips and flat head)
- 12 mm wrench
- needle nosed pliers
- WD-40
- shop rags
- chain lube
- something to wedge in between the rear wheel and swing arm (I used 1/2" drive extentions)
- either a rear stand or any other way you can stabalize the bike with the rear wheel off.
- BEER or other cold beverage (optional)
Time: It took me about 45 mins to do the job and take pictures - this is the first time I've done it.
1st- Remove the front sprocket cover. Mine had three 10 mm bolts.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/572097C25F414BD7BA680967B0A8BF17.jpg[/IMG]
2nd- Remove the master clutch assembly. I had two 8 mm bolts. Red circles
3rd- Remove master clutch assembly housing - three 8 mm bolts. (This was blocking my sprocket, it may vary b/w models.)Green circles
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/C284A4C22A974B12BBE8FE6D105C6889.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/03FB08F3368B4C7BA0F082CB948F54B2.jpg[/IMG]
This is the master clutch assembly. After you remove the two bolts, it slides right off.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/C250C51AED4A4661AB65319CD9456768.jpg[/IMG]
This is the master clutch assembly housing.
This setup was a -2+2 conversion. For most people a -1+2 is normal. Both allow for the same chain to be used
Tools needed:
- 8 mm socket
- 10 mm socket
- 14 mm socket
- 1 1/16" impact socket ( i orignally used a reg socket but I broke it, so definatly get a impact socket)
- breaker bar (I used a 32" long 1/2" drive)
- hammer
- screwdriver (both phillips and flat head)
- 12 mm wrench
- needle nosed pliers
- WD-40
- shop rags
- chain lube
- something to wedge in between the rear wheel and swing arm (I used 1/2" drive extentions)
- either a rear stand or any other way you can stabalize the bike with the rear wheel off.
- BEER or other cold beverage (optional)
Time: It took me about 45 mins to do the job and take pictures - this is the first time I've done it.
1st- Remove the front sprocket cover. Mine had three 10 mm bolts.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/572097C25F414BD7BA680967B0A8BF17.jpg[/IMG]
2nd- Remove the master clutch assembly. I had two 8 mm bolts. Red circles
3rd- Remove master clutch assembly housing - three 8 mm bolts. (This was blocking my sprocket, it may vary b/w models.)Green circles
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/C284A4C22A974B12BBE8FE6D105C6889.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/03FB08F3368B4C7BA0F082CB948F54B2.jpg[/IMG]
This is the master clutch assembly. After you remove the two bolts, it slides right off.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/C250C51AED4A4661AB65319CD9456768.jpg[/IMG]
This is the master clutch assembly housing.
#2
RE: how to: sprocket change
4th- Flatten out the bent part of the sprocket washer. I used a hammer and flat head screwdriver.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/7D2EC9130AEF4AED9EADD527EAE02091.jpg[/IMG]
5th- Remove chain guard. Mine had 4 phillip head screws.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/6FF68E61C76141D99A2AE5C3AA50D17E.jpg[/IMG]
6th- Raise the rear end of the bike off the ground. Easiest way is a rear stand but I don't have one so I used a tie down and looped it over a I-beam in the basement and hook the tiedown to my grab handles to raise it up.
7th- Place something between rear wheel and swing arm to keep the rear wheel in place while you try to losen the front sprocket nut. I used 1/2" drive extentions.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/E5C8DB2110B24407B8E37A8C60A0BB4F.jpg[/IMG]
8th- Using the breaker bar and 1 1/16" socket remove the nut on the front sprocket. It is a bitch to get off.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/0535893D45C94D658D8BCC83FAB7BBD9.jpg[/IMG]
This is the washer that is under the nut on the front sprocket.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/F2DCFF012FC14774AC8CC76B6028990C.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/7D2EC9130AEF4AED9EADD527EAE02091.jpg[/IMG]
5th- Remove chain guard. Mine had 4 phillip head screws.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/6FF68E61C76141D99A2AE5C3AA50D17E.jpg[/IMG]
6th- Raise the rear end of the bike off the ground. Easiest way is a rear stand but I don't have one so I used a tie down and looped it over a I-beam in the basement and hook the tiedown to my grab handles to raise it up.
7th- Place something between rear wheel and swing arm to keep the rear wheel in place while you try to losen the front sprocket nut. I used 1/2" drive extentions.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/E5C8DB2110B24407B8E37A8C60A0BB4F.jpg[/IMG]
8th- Using the breaker bar and 1 1/16" socket remove the nut on the front sprocket. It is a bitch to get off.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/0535893D45C94D658D8BCC83FAB7BBD9.jpg[/IMG]
This is the washer that is under the nut on the front sprocket.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/F2DCFF012FC14774AC8CC76B6028990C.jpg[/IMG]
#3
RE: how to: sprocket change
9th- Drink cold beverage.
10th- Remove cotter pin out of rear axle.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/312DD4E14B8E44FEAF8DEC8531DD80ED.jpg[/IMG]
11th- Losen axle nut.
12th- Losen the chain adjustments most of the way. Mine is 12mm. Be sure to losen the locking nut before you screw in the adjustment screw. Once losened, kick the rear tire in.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/5D570AC8B87F4AEEB09CDB7AD664F05F.jpg[/IMG]
13th- Pull the chain back as far as you can and off the top part of the sprocket. While holding the top part of chain off the sprocket spin the tire backwards and the chain will come right off.
14th- With the chain off the rear sprocket you'll be able to pull the front sprocket off.
Notice all the crap in the front sprocket housing. Now would be a good time to wipe it out.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/154340C036A844739524F7D1C3610790.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/48514D7496C44029B63DD5EE561D438D.jpg[/IMG]
This is the stock sprocket 16T, new sprocket 14T.
15th, install new sprocket. It will slide right on and there should be enough room to put the chain back on it.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/EBE45E3003294C8F88C09D54EE6A4D44.jpg[/IMG]
new sprocket installed.
#4
RE: how to: sprocket change
step 16- Put whatever you used to stop the rear wheel from spinning under the swing arm and spin the tire back until it stops.
17- losen the 6 14mm nuts on the sprocket but don't take the off.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/2CD3748C82BF4130A91C98A7AEC1969D.jpg[/IMG]
18- losen axel nut until it is amost completely off. Place your foot under the tire to apply upward pressure so when you take the axel out there isn't any pressure on the axel. Using the hammer slight tap the nut so the axel starts to come out. once the axel nut has reached the swing arm, remove nut and you should be able to pull the axel the rest of the way out. I forgot to take a pic of how everything went together so remember how the spacers/rear brake assembly go together with the axel. On my bike there was a spacer on the left side and right side of the wheel, then the rear brake mount on the right side of the right spacer before the swingarm.
19- Now that the rear wheel is off lay it down on the ground and finish taking the 6 14mm nuts off and remove the rear sprocket.
This is the stocker 43T reat sprocket and the new 45T rear sprocket.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/7AF36D75514144E191B422F07BBB705B.jpg[/IMG]
This is what the wheel will look like after sprocket has been removed.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/F03681EE107847C08DC3B6539A308348.jpg[/IMG]
20- Put on new sprocket. Tighten the nuts the same way you would tighten lug nuts, tighten one, then the oppisite side nut ect.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/27FC60C02CAB4123AACF31393EC5F3B1.jpg[/IMG]
17- losen the 6 14mm nuts on the sprocket but don't take the off.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/2CD3748C82BF4130A91C98A7AEC1969D.jpg[/IMG]
18- losen axel nut until it is amost completely off. Place your foot under the tire to apply upward pressure so when you take the axel out there isn't any pressure on the axel. Using the hammer slight tap the nut so the axel starts to come out. once the axel nut has reached the swing arm, remove nut and you should be able to pull the axel the rest of the way out. I forgot to take a pic of how everything went together so remember how the spacers/rear brake assembly go together with the axel. On my bike there was a spacer on the left side and right side of the wheel, then the rear brake mount on the right side of the right spacer before the swingarm.
19- Now that the rear wheel is off lay it down on the ground and finish taking the 6 14mm nuts off and remove the rear sprocket.
This is the stocker 43T reat sprocket and the new 45T rear sprocket.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/7AF36D75514144E191B422F07BBB705B.jpg[/IMG]
This is what the wheel will look like after sprocket has been removed.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/F03681EE107847C08DC3B6539A308348.jpg[/IMG]
20- Put on new sprocket. Tighten the nuts the same way you would tighten lug nuts, tighten one, then the oppisite side nut ect.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1307/27FC60C02CAB4123AACF31393EC5F3B1.jpg[/IMG]
#5
RE: how to: sprocket change
21- Drink another cold beverage
TIME TO REASSEMBLE
there are no pics for this and you should be able to do it pretty easily
22- Put the rear wheel back into the swing arm. Using your foot to hold the wheel in place, put the axel back through, using the hammer to tap it throgh.
23- Put chain on front sprocket and on the top of the rear sprocket. Sping tire backward and that should put the chain on completely.
24- Tighten the rear chain to roughly where it would need to be.
25- Put on the front sprocket washer and nut
26- Place something in the wheel and swingarm so you can now tighten the front nut using the breaker bar again or a torque wrench if you have one. Then I used a flat head screwdriver and stuck it in one of the holes on the socket and pried the washer up against 2 sides of the nut.
27- Spray the chain down with wd-40 and while spinning the rear wheel, use a shop rag to clean up the chain. Then repeat the same process with chain lub.
28- Now spin the rear tire to find the tight spot in the chain. while spinning the tire lift up on the bottom on the chain under the swing arm repeadily until you find the tight spot. Adjust rear chain to manufactors specs using the marks on the swing as a guide, tighten down the bolts on the adjustment screws. Tighten the rear axel and put the codder pin back in.
29- Put on the master clutch assembly housing, then the master clutch assembly and then the front sprocket cover.
Thats it. Its pretty easy as long as you have the right tools. If you follow these directions step by step you shouldn't have any problems. You must leave the chain tight in order to get the front sprocket nut off and visa versa to tighten the nut.
TIME TO REASSEMBLE
there are no pics for this and you should be able to do it pretty easily
22- Put the rear wheel back into the swing arm. Using your foot to hold the wheel in place, put the axel back through, using the hammer to tap it throgh.
23- Put chain on front sprocket and on the top of the rear sprocket. Sping tire backward and that should put the chain on completely.
24- Tighten the rear chain to roughly where it would need to be.
25- Put on the front sprocket washer and nut
26- Place something in the wheel and swingarm so you can now tighten the front nut using the breaker bar again or a torque wrench if you have one. Then I used a flat head screwdriver and stuck it in one of the holes on the socket and pried the washer up against 2 sides of the nut.
27- Spray the chain down with wd-40 and while spinning the rear wheel, use a shop rag to clean up the chain. Then repeat the same process with chain lub.
28- Now spin the rear tire to find the tight spot in the chain. while spinning the tire lift up on the bottom on the chain under the swing arm repeadily until you find the tight spot. Adjust rear chain to manufactors specs using the marks on the swing as a guide, tighten down the bolts on the adjustment screws. Tighten the rear axel and put the codder pin back in.
29- Put on the master clutch assembly housing, then the master clutch assembly and then the front sprocket cover.
Thats it. Its pretty easy as long as you have the right tools. If you follow these directions step by step you shouldn't have any problems. You must leave the chain tight in order to get the front sprocket nut off and visa versa to tighten the nut.
#7
RE: how to: sprocket change
OK here are pics of my old sprockets and you can see how worn they are. As far as my dirty bike, I had a 300 mile round trip yesterday to get these sprocket and the second half was in the rain, I pulled the bike in the basement when I got home(which means going through mud) to let her dry so i could change the sprockets. I will get washed today since today is the FIRST day I've seen the sun in over a week.
#9
RE: how to: sprocket change
what see pics of the new sprocket with a clean bike? I actually went with a -2+2 setup b/c of the 7's weight being so far forward. It dropped the top speed from 180 to about 155ish. Before I could only clutch wheelie first, no power wheelies at all, now it will power first all day long, clutching first scared the **** out of me, second is only coming up about a foot but i'm working on that It accelerates so much harder now though, esp in the top end. 6th gear roll ons are amazing, It used to take me 4-5 sec to do a 60mph to 80mph roll on, and later i'll test it again once i get to ride again. I've got to make a trip to the store and get some honda polish