How To: replace your clutch
#1
10-17-2008, 06:08 AM
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: terrorizing southeastern norf carolina
Posts: 2,092
How To: replace your clutch
alrighty. todays lesson is a standard wet multiplate clutch replacement.
your bike (unless is a ducati or belt/chain-primary chopper) has a "wet" (oil-bathed) clutch in it. its a multi-plate design to keep it compact and still be able to transfer immense horespower.
your clutch is comprised of alternating steel and friction plates. the steels have teeth on the inside, the friction plates have wider teeth on the outside.
this will be the same procedure for slipper, and non-slipper clutches.
read this before going thru with it just to make sure you got everything!
*on this example, these pictures are from a polaris 500 quad. BUT, all clutches are the same, so fear not.this'll get ya thru.
preferred tools:
-assortment of allens sockets
-various wrenches and sockets (most times, an 8MM and 10MM socket and a 5MM allen)
-rags
-oil pan
-magnet on a stick and small, flat, long screwdriver
ghetto tools:
-allen wrenches
-cresent wench and various wrenches and sockets that fit
-newspaper
-big pot no longer used for cooking (hopefully) or a catch pan of some sort
-silicone sealant
-coat hanger wire
universal tools
-beer
-workin music
-people hangin out
parts
-plate kit
-clutch cover gasket
-motor oil
ok. now, i tend to remove some oil before hand to keep it from pouring out all over the place, but you can opt not to do this, or take your oil pan and place it under the clutch cover to catch what will come out anyway..
*on cable clutches... take loose the cable and remove it from the bottom of the clutch cover, and spin the disengagement shaft 180 degrees
hydraulic, you'll probably not need to do anything but this next step..
(take you plastic off if you have to!)
***some plates require that you soak them in oil for a while to get them to spec and grippy.. if you use clutchplates that need soaked, do this now while the cover is still on. give it an hour or two, or whatever the manufacturer suggests. i usually use DP cluches.. they don't need a presoak, and can be installed and ridden. also, during this time of soaking, you can disassemble the clutchpack and scrape the old gasket off the case and cover..
* ok, with a pan under the cover, remove whatever type of bolts hold the clutch cover on. try to follow some sort of pattern to keep flex to a minimum in the cover.
*set the cover aside and on something soft, as to not scratch it up.
take the proper tool the will
i take the filler cap out and put my finger in the hole just to keep a good grip on the cover on removal.. just a suggestion..
**now is the time to make sure you have the correct size clutchplates!!!
make sure they're not too big or small....
-for multi-spring (5 or 6) pressure plates, get the correct tool, and remove the bolts holding the springs in and the pressure plate down. the springs are shorter then the bolts, so they wont fly across the room when you remove them..
-for belleville washer type, just remove the big nut in the center holding everything in place. NOTE the direction of the curve of the washer! if it doesn't go back in this way, you'll change the pressure applied to the clutch! (usually on the older gixxers..)
* ok. now with the pressure plate off, you will see your first plate. it is a friction plate. you'll begin and end with this style plate....
remove it and inspect the side of the teeth.. are they dented? remove the rest of the plates in there... use a small screwdriver, or magnet on a stick to pull the plates out.
are the teeth of the steel rings dented? is the hub they ride on scalloped or chewed up? if so and this is a used bike you bought, the bike was abused or stunted, and you should probably replace the entire clutch assembly now...
stuntbikes, and racebikes with tight slipper setups are going to show a little hammereing on the splines of the hub and basket, but use your good judgement to determine whether this warrants any concern..
* ok.. if your new plates are soaking in oil, go fetch them and get em ready to put in!
either way with whatever plate brand you have, if they're ready to be put in, go ahead and slide the first friction plate to the back of the basket and hub.
now a steel.
keep alternating them until you have installed all the rings back in place.
the last friction ring typically goes in the "other" slots that are shallow at the end of the basket!! failing to put the plate in this spot will sometimes result in vibration and clutch noise!
* after reintroducing all the appropriate rings, go ahead and button everything back up in the reverse order you took them off and go for an easy ride!
btw... if you didn't happen to buy a new clutch cover gasket upon buying your new clutch, clean the mating surfaces of the cover and case, and apply some "rtv" type silicone sealant to them, bolt them together at 1/4 torque.. give it maybe a half an hour to cure and bond, then torque everything the rest of the way down!
you're ready to go ride! be easy on it for a while til everything settles and breaks in....
had this posted on kawispeed.. figured you'd like it..
hope this helps!
have fun and be safe!!
your bike (unless is a ducati or belt/chain-primary chopper) has a "wet" (oil-bathed) clutch in it. its a multi-plate design to keep it compact and still be able to transfer immense horespower.
your clutch is comprised of alternating steel and friction plates. the steels have teeth on the inside, the friction plates have wider teeth on the outside.
this will be the same procedure for slipper, and non-slipper clutches.
read this before going thru with it just to make sure you got everything!
*on this example, these pictures are from a polaris 500 quad. BUT, all clutches are the same, so fear not.this'll get ya thru.
preferred tools:
-assortment of allens sockets
-various wrenches and sockets (most times, an 8MM and 10MM socket and a 5MM allen)
-rags
-oil pan
-magnet on a stick and small, flat, long screwdriver
ghetto tools:
-allen wrenches
-cresent wench and various wrenches and sockets that fit
-newspaper
-big pot no longer used for cooking (hopefully) or a catch pan of some sort
-silicone sealant
-coat hanger wire
universal tools
-beer
-workin music
-people hangin out
parts
-plate kit
-clutch cover gasket
-motor oil
ok. now, i tend to remove some oil before hand to keep it from pouring out all over the place, but you can opt not to do this, or take your oil pan and place it under the clutch cover to catch what will come out anyway..
*on cable clutches... take loose the cable and remove it from the bottom of the clutch cover, and spin the disengagement shaft 180 degrees
hydraulic, you'll probably not need to do anything but this next step..
(take you plastic off if you have to!)
***some plates require that you soak them in oil for a while to get them to spec and grippy.. if you use clutchplates that need soaked, do this now while the cover is still on. give it an hour or two, or whatever the manufacturer suggests. i usually use DP cluches.. they don't need a presoak, and can be installed and ridden. also, during this time of soaking, you can disassemble the clutchpack and scrape the old gasket off the case and cover..
* ok, with a pan under the cover, remove whatever type of bolts hold the clutch cover on. try to follow some sort of pattern to keep flex to a minimum in the cover.
*set the cover aside and on something soft, as to not scratch it up.
take the proper tool the will
i take the filler cap out and put my finger in the hole just to keep a good grip on the cover on removal.. just a suggestion..
**now is the time to make sure you have the correct size clutchplates!!!
make sure they're not too big or small....
-for multi-spring (5 or 6) pressure plates, get the correct tool, and remove the bolts holding the springs in and the pressure plate down. the springs are shorter then the bolts, so they wont fly across the room when you remove them..
-for belleville washer type, just remove the big nut in the center holding everything in place. NOTE the direction of the curve of the washer! if it doesn't go back in this way, you'll change the pressure applied to the clutch! (usually on the older gixxers..)
* ok. now with the pressure plate off, you will see your first plate. it is a friction plate. you'll begin and end with this style plate....
remove it and inspect the side of the teeth.. are they dented? remove the rest of the plates in there... use a small screwdriver, or magnet on a stick to pull the plates out.
are the teeth of the steel rings dented? is the hub they ride on scalloped or chewed up? if so and this is a used bike you bought, the bike was abused or stunted, and you should probably replace the entire clutch assembly now...
stuntbikes, and racebikes with tight slipper setups are going to show a little hammereing on the splines of the hub and basket, but use your good judgement to determine whether this warrants any concern..
* ok.. if your new plates are soaking in oil, go fetch them and get em ready to put in!
either way with whatever plate brand you have, if they're ready to be put in, go ahead and slide the first friction plate to the back of the basket and hub.
now a steel.
keep alternating them until you have installed all the rings back in place.
the last friction ring typically goes in the "other" slots that are shallow at the end of the basket!! failing to put the plate in this spot will sometimes result in vibration and clutch noise!
* after reintroducing all the appropriate rings, go ahead and button everything back up in the reverse order you took them off and go for an easy ride!
btw... if you didn't happen to buy a new clutch cover gasket upon buying your new clutch, clean the mating surfaces of the cover and case, and apply some "rtv" type silicone sealant to them, bolt them together at 1/4 torque.. give it maybe a half an hour to cure and bond, then torque everything the rest of the way down!
you're ready to go ride! be easy on it for a while til everything settles and breaks in....
had this posted on kawispeed.. figured you'd like it..
hope this helps!
have fun and be safe!!
Last edited by whitehendrix; 12-19-2008 at 06:48 AM.
#4
12-19-2008, 06:49 AM
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: terrorizing southeastern norf carolina
Posts: 2,092
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