( pics of FORK OIL change and instructions )
After removing wheel/fender/and calipers. Losen the top tripple clamp bolt

then the two lower clamp bolts while holding the fork leg. Lower the leg about 6"
and retighten the lower clamp. Tape the top 27 mm blue annodized nut to keep from marking it up and brake lose.

Then take each fork leg out and get your drain pan ready.


# 2

Tape the top nut up
to protect it


#3
Lower 6" and brake the nut lose while the lower triple hold the fork tube from spinning on you.


#4A 3/8" piece of hose about 2' long helps hold
the damper rod and help pump it to bleed the air out


#5Unscrew the 27mm
till it looks like this



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#6

Pull up on the 27mm nut
and push down on the silver spring colar and you will see a nut. Use a 14mm wrench and then take a 17 mm wrench to the top spring preload adjustment.

Turn both counter clock wise and then just spin the Rebound adjustment assembly off.

Dont worry let it all fall in it will be fine.


#7

another pic
of the wrenchs on


#8
Now take out both washers and the
colar and the spring. Dont worry both washers are the same no need to mark them.

#9
I like to keep track how much fluid comes out
should be about 13.5 to 14 onces.

#10
reach in and pull out this thin rod
DO NOT BEND!








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#11

Poor out the fluid and then grab the damber rod as it comes down out of the fork tube
pump it till no more fork oil comes out


#12
14 onces is about what you will get out
I have some extra clean fork oil so I like to put in about 5 onces and use it to pump /clean the rest of the dirty stuff out. then drain that out and start reasembly


#13
Reinstall clean spring taper side down
and the flat end facing the top of the fork tube


#14
Reinstall clean Rebound damding
adjuster rod

#15
Next poor in 14 onces of fork oil
Book spec is 13.5 but I waited longer on draing the old fluid and got out 14 onces so I am replacing with same amount.

After fresh rebuild and cleaning a dry fork will hold 15 onces or 474 ml

Now after pooring in ne fluid and using the 3/8" hose to grab the threads on the damper rod to pump the air out wait a few minutes to let the air bubles to surface





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#12
Use the hose to
pump the air out it will grab the thread for you on the damper rod


#13
Leave the hose on and
slide one washer on. Clean


#14
Now slide the colar on
followed by the last washer


#15
Now this take 2 hands but pull the inner
fork leg up while keeping the damper rod at the top with the hose.

You can push the top washer under and to the side of the damper rod nut.

You want 11mm of threads showing or about 7/16" if you dont have a metric ruler.

screw on the top cap and use the 14mm wrench and 17 mm wrench to tighten


#16
Final pic
now this part is fun. using both hands turn the fork leg clock wise and the top cap clockwise
while pressing the two parts together till the are holding. DONT FORCE THE THREADS

They are aluminum and easy to damage. It should go togther smothly and hand easy


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Enjoy . Pics are worth a thousands words . The above job can be done with simple hand tools and some patiance. Time for me 1 hour
for both forks and reasembly of the bike .

A first timer will take two to three hours , but you save your self several hundred dollars .

This is also a good time to install custom springs for your weight if you desire .

Most people neglect the forks matiance but trust me your bike will handle much better with fresh fluid than dirty worn fluid.
My ZRX calls for every 15,000 miles but I perform a fork oil change every 10,000 miles because of the harder riding I do .
At 10,000 my fluid is black and stinks .

Good luck