I did search, but out of frustration have resorted to this post.

Recently I tore the base of my vavle stem on a 2007 250 KLX.

I installed heavy duty tubes about a year ago with the help of friend who at the time instructed me to leave one nut on the vave stem on the tube side, then the second nut gets installed on the outer rim side (basically nuts sandwiching the rim.

When I looked at the damage to my tube it looks like the pressure point may have been due to this nut.

I checked with another bike expert friend and he said never put the nut on, only the curved washer, local dealer said always the nut, and another friend nut off.. another friend says nut on

So my dilema..

BTW.. I've ordered some bead locks.. although according to some not required on the front....but then.. how do I explain my tear?

Thanks for any assistance.

 

You didn't say what pressure you were running? If running somewhat lower pressure, maybe in the 15lb and lower range, give or take, you should be running rim locks, front and rear. The front can slip just like the rear can. If you were running lower'ish pressure, and your valve stem ripped, chances are good it was due to no rim locks, not the nut.

I generally do as your buddy said, leave the nut on the inside to support valve stem area, but DO NOT tighten the nut on the outside. Go ahead and put it on, but run it all the way out up against the valve stem cap. That way, if you do happen to get a little bit of slippage, you have a little bit of play before the stem rips out. But if the nut is tight against the rim locking the valve stem in place, then a little bit of slippage is all it takes to rip it out.

I ride off-road mostly and run typically around 10 to 12 lbs of pressure front and rear depending on conditions. I also use two rim locks per wheel, opposite each other. This serves three purposes:

1) extra insurance against the tire slipping on the rim - it's not going anywhere no matter how low the pressure

2) the 2nd rim lock balances out the first one for the most part, so you don't get annoying vibration at 50+ MPH

3) if you would happen to get a flat while out on the trail, with the 2nd rim lock installed, that will keep the tire on the rim and you can usually nurse it out without having to change out the tube or repair it on the trail

 

Great thanks for the clarification.

Yes I did order one rim lock.. now you got me thinking I should run two.. as I due need to run some highway at times.

Thanks for the help.

 

You can take it to a bike shop and they can balance it for you with lead weights, if you don't feel inclined to drill your rim for a 2nd rim lock. It will run smooth as butter then. And you'll still have the security of at least one rim lock which is probably all you really need.

 

One more off road trick - slightly slot the stem hole on the rim to allow the stem more lean than normal. That way if running really low pressure, you will clearly see the stem tilt before ripping out. I believe Honda used to have the rims slotted back in the late 70s. There is no risk of getting gunk into the hole since the aired up tube will keep it out anyway.