I was just wondering what your jet specs were at, what mods you have, what alitude your at, and did you do the taffy mod. Thanks

 

When I got my FCR35 from Jerry at FSW he had it set up with Pilot 55, Needle OCDVR, Clip Position 4th, Main 155, Fuel Screw 1.5 out,Main Air Jet 200, Pilot Air Jet 1.5. I usually ride from about 2500'-6500' and with those settings it was a little rich. I now have a 331 bore so my jetting is now different. I lost my old jetting chart but I think I had a 152 Main and a 50 or maybe 52 Pilot with the clip changed to the 3rd position. Fuel screw about 1.5-1.75 out.Jerry tried an experiment with my carb by putting a spring on the linkage system to accomplish what the taffy mod does. It may have helped somebuthave abandoned that for now.I haven't been riding much this season and am trying to get the jetting dialed in with the 331 and after that I will probablytry the taffy mod. I alreadyhave some wheel collars to use. Other engine mods with the 300 were complete FSW exhaust, opened up air box (no lid), crankcase breather mod and FSW head work with bronze seats, stainless valves with titanium retainers and single springs. When I did the 331 I added Web Cam cams.

 

Give us a report once you get'er dialed-in. About how muchdid the headwork cost?

 

Also, how hard is the FCR to fit? I got a Stroker modded one second hand, and having tried to fit it tonight gave up and came to consult the wisdom of this board. Did you need to grind the engine mount a little? Also can you give me an exact length in mm end to end of the FCR please? Mine has a very long inlet trumpet and there just isn't the room to even get it into the frame.

 

It will be interesting to see the measurements. The older bikes that stroker worked with had more space between the airbox and the engine, because their airbox was shorter in total length. They had higher flow as well.

JerryLeighton at fourstrokeworks.biz used to work forStroker, so maybe you can visit his site andsend him an email.He's always been more than helpfulwhenever I've dealt with him.

Theinlet onmy pumper isvery short, but it's not an FCR either. Sounds like they were trying to get some more low-end out of the bike.

 

I heard that the fcr's prepped for the klx300 would not fit on the 250s due to interference with the starter. They put a longer outlet on the 250s carb to push it back and clear the starter. You could always send it to jerry for a few dollars and do the mods to make it fit. It might just be a different outlet that he could just send you.
AgoosSS thanks for the settings

 

I got quite good and removing and installing the FCR35 in my KLX250S (then a 331cc) with all the jetting changes I was making in getting it dialed in. It is a very tall carb but it will fit. You need to work it in from the top, rotating a bit here and there so that the manifold side clears the frame rails. It will be tight. Once you get that past you need to push it on down in and get teh throttle cable hanger to dip under the frame rail toward the valve cap cover. It should be nearly in position now so slip the manifold side into its boot first and then do the airbox boot side. The airbox boot side is the hardest, it won't want to fit squarely, but don't tighten it up yet. At this point, the bottom of the carb might be touching the starter. Here's the trick: put about a 1/2 inch or so spacer between the bottom of the carb and the starter. Then tighten up the boots and remove the spacer. You may need to apply pressure to the airbox side boot to get it to seat squarely onto the carb. Once both sides are tightened, that will hold the carb up a little bit over the starter and it won't vibrate against it.









Good luck!

 

[quote]ORIGINAL: tremor38

Give us a report once you get'er dialed-in. About how muchdid the headwork cost?
[quote]

I have it close but may have to tweak the pilot circuit a little and then I think the taffy mod will clean it up. The only thing I don't like about the taffy mod is you basically have to remove the rubber boot which increases the chances of crud infiltrating the carb.

I did the head work when it was time for new valves. When I had it done it was about $600.00. The machining and install of the bronze seats added a lot to the price. I definitely felt an increase in the seat of the pants after the head work, I was due for new valves, but would not have it done until it's time for valves. It seems most of us that strictly ride hard off road go through valves much faster thanthose that ride a lot on the street. You don't read much, if ever on this forum aboutreplacing valves but is very common reading on the Yahoo and Thumpertalk forums. I think being in constantdusty conditions and the hard fast reving on and off greatly accelerates the valve life.

 

If it is a true Stroker carb it should fit. You have to rotate it in just right. I don't have the dimensions of the carb. You may want to contact Jerry at FSW as he could tell you what you have. I'm almost positive FSW sets up the the carb for the 250S the same as for the 300's. I have only had mine out once or twice since putting it in and I also think it looked just like in the photos Nobrakes posted. I don't have a starter so mine goes in a little easier than what Nobrakes indicated. Also since I don't have a starter, I can do all of my jetting changes and adjustments without removing the carb from the bike. I can remove the bowl, change pilot/main jets, and adjust the pilot all in about five or ten minutes. It is actually easier to do than the CVK was. I would still rather have that starter though.

 

guys, thanks very much for this info. Nobrakes - I'll grab my FCR and compare it with the one in your photo at some point in the next day or so. My FCR came with a external adjustable fuel screw and that hits the starter before the drain bolt does.... I pulled the screw out and it's still very tight in there, I'm not sure I've got the 1/2" you talk about. Also I note that the rubber boot is a fairly sloppy fit around the trumpet on the piston side of the carb, did you find the same?