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Here's a handy item that makes bleeding air out of the front fork to equilize to atmospheric pressure just a button-press job instead of requiring a screwdriver. Just pick up a set of bleeder valves and replace the screws in the top of your fork. I got mine from RockyMountainAtv.com - around $10 if I recall.
Raise the front end off the ground so there's no pressure on the front forks and remove this screw:
And replace with a bleeder valve:
To equalize pressure, just press the top of the valve and the pressure will equalize.
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Big Bore Whore of P.W.I.
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yeah, and that's what's the pain in this procedure. That product, as stated, is handy but really it's no biggie to turn a screwdriver since you do still have to jack the bike up. I guess it just comes down to if you want to waste 2 more minutes or not.
Nah, you just find a good sized log on the trail, wheelie the front end, and high-center on it...
Then while the forks are topped out, push the button... OK, now to get off this big log.
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331cc Kustom Kraft big bore, Mikuni TM36-68 pumper, full Muzzy exhaust, airbox mods, 14/42 gearing, Acerbis 3.7G tank
Marty - I would be cautious on utilizing air pressure to tune the front suspension. I tried this on my MX bike about 6 years ago and it always ended up inferior to my set-ups using correct springs and oil levels. It seemed to me the air created a ride that is fine for keeping the suspension from bottoming but losing out in compliance relative to oil/spring tuning.
I am assuming this is because the air when compressed increases spring rate. Whereas the springs retain the same spring rate when compressed (unless you have progressive wound springs). This is where high/low speed damping adjustments on suspension really come into play. Sadly with the KLX we have none of those options[&:].
One possibility is to get a set of 1995 or 1996 KX500 forks. They are 43mm and if revalved for off-road instead of MX use and resprung for your weight if needed, should make a superior fork upgrade to our stock fork. For one thing, the KX forks have both rebound as well as compression damping whereas ours only have compression damping which makes them harder to dial in.
I looked at doing that but you have to get those specific years because later years switch to 46mm forks and they won't fit into our triple clamps and prior years used a different brake caliper mount. The KX250 and KX125 forks for 1995 should also work. The key being that they are 43mm forks and match the same brake caliper mount. I think some axle work would also need to be done, but a simple threaded bushing for our stock axle should do the trick.
I decided to just respring my existing stock forks for my weight and I'll call that good enough. My shock spring is about right for my weight, but the fronts are too soft. It's odd that Kawasaki chose springs that are unbalanced front and rear. If one is right, the other is wrong.
Its because they make an attempt to plan for a passenger.As a resultthe rear isnt as undersprung for a dirt bike & can often be oversprung on streetbikes.
Front fork bleeder valves
